THE
OVERLAND GUIDE-BOOK;
A
COMPLETE VADE-MECUM
FOR
THE OVERLAND TRAVELLER,
TO INDIA viâ EGYPT.

BY
CAPTAIN JAMES BARBER, H.C.S.

SECOND EDITION.
LONDON:
Wm. H. ALLEN AND Co.,
7, LEADENHALL-STREET.
1850.

LONDON:
LEWIS AND SON, FINCH-LANE, CORNHILL.

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TO THE
CIVIL AND MILITARY SERVICES
OF
BRITISH INDIA,
THIS WORK IS DEDICATED,
WITH GRATEFUL RESPECT
AND
CORDIAL GOOD WISHES,
BY
THEIR OBEDIENT HUMBLE SERVANT,
THE AUTHOR.

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INTRODUCTION.

The purpose of this little volume, which I have now the honour to submit to the public, is to combine, in a compact and convenient form, all the information necessary to the prosecution of the journey Overland to India and vice versâ.

Scarcely a day passes that I am not asked, either personally or by letter, to guide some intending traveller in his arrangements for the trip, and even to advise him as to the preferable routes, the expense, the manner of the voyage, &c. Ignorance on all these points induces inapposite and irrelevant questions; and it is not unusual to find, at the end of correspondence or a prolonged interview, that the querist is as far from the possession of the knowledge he desired to acquire as he was when he first preferred his application. No clear and satisfactory information can possibly be obtained by a desultory conversation or fragmentary epistles; hence the value of a systematic and comprehensive arrangement of all the facts and suggestions pertaining to the subject.

There is another reason why I should put forth this Guide,—it completes, in a measure—as far, at least, as the great Overland scheme is in itself complete—my humble labours in the mighty cause of steam-communication between England and India. For the past fourteen years, I have earnestly and ardently advocated the accomplishment of this great object; and, though treated as a vain and visionary enthusiast, when I have presumed to predict the establishment of a semi-monthly intercourse (which I did in 1836!), my endeavours never relaxed, nor did my hope in the least degree abate. I may be pardoned, therefore, some measure of exultation and self-approval, when, looking back upon the state of the steam question some years ago, and tracing its rise and progress through a thousand difficulties and obstructions, I venture to associate my own zeal and exertions with the triumphant consummation apparent in the scheme now adopted and carried out by the “Peninsular and Oriental Company,” and the “East India Company,” not only with the Presidencies of India, but also with our Chinese possessions.

I laboured long and strenuously; for I could not persuade myself that British enterprise and public spirit would suffer so obvious a means of extending commerce and civilisation, and of the approximation of our vast Indian empire to the seat of its supreme rule, to be neglected. The great cause has triumphed,—some of my wildest dreams have become sober realities, and, while I feel grateful for the past, I am hopeful for the future.

Those who take a prominent and active part in promoting great schemes of public utility, where doubt and timidity, and envy and selfish interests are to be combated, must expect to meet with rebuffs and misrepresentations. Of these evils I have had my share, but I have also, from time to time, been unexpectedly cheered on the way by receiving voluntary and public testimonials of unspeakable value, graciously transmitted through various channels. I may be excused for publishing the following letter from the present excellent and much esteemed Bishop of Calcutta, for it displays a truly Christian spirit,—it grapples comprehensively with the question, and corroborates the view taken by the late Lord William Bentinck, who expressed his opinion “that steam-communication with India would be cheaply bought at any price.”

The journey to and from India, by way of Egypt, is now one of comparative ease and pleasure; and, as it is my intention to publish periodically a revised edition of “The Overland Guide Book,” I shall feel grateful to those persons who, from time to time, will communicate with me on the subject, in order that the best and fullest information gained by experience may be made available to the traveller who prefers this route.

JAMES BARBER.

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LIST OF ENGRAVINGS.

	PAGE
GIBRALTAR	8
ROCK OF GIBRALTAR, FROM THE NEUTRAL GROUND	9
MALTA	10
MALTESE PEASANT	22
ALEXANDRIA	24
BOULAC	28
ASCENT OF THE PYRAMIDS	29
DESERT CARRIAGE	32
ADEN	33
MUSSOOLAH BOAT	45
NILE BOAT	72

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THE OVERLAND GUIDE-BOOK.

The communication with India by means of steam-vessels, viâ the Mediterranean and the Red Sea, can no longer be viewed as an experimental project; the great increase that has taken place in the number of travellers by this route in a few brief years has distanced all calculation, and we, therefore, place before the public such facts, details and suggestions, connected with what is popularly called “The Overland Route,” as shall facilitate the performance of the voyage, from the hour when the resolution to proceed to India or to Europe is taken, down to that which sees the traveller safely deposited at his destination.

The sea route round the Cape of Good Hope still has its partisans, in spite of the tedium, extra risk and absence of all objects of interest, which necessarily distinguish such a voyage. False notions of economy, groundless apprehensions, peculiar ideas of comfort and ancient prejudices, cannot be immediately dissipated, especially when so many encouragements to their continuance exist in the beautiful trading-vessels, which offer accommodation to the public, commanded by gentlemen, whose courtesy and sçavoir vivre are only equalled by their nautical experience.

Still in this—the comparative infancy of the steam route—nine-tenths of those whom fortune may carry to India will prefer the most expeditious manner of proceeding thither; and it, therefore, becomes in the highest degree important that they should be supplied with the fullest information, in furtherance of their purpose.

Under this impression, the following pages have been compiled; and, as we purpose to confine ourselves to useful and practical detail, the reader is left to seek, in the numberless volumes that have been published, a more elaborate account of those objects on his route which he may desire to mark with special attention.

The following division of our subject appears the most convenient for the object of this publication:—

Instructions and Hints to Passengers to Aden, Ceylon, Madras, Calcutta, the Straits and China.

To Bombay.

Routes through France and Trieste.

From India, viâ Syra, Malta, Marseilles, or direct to Southampton.

Miscellaneous.

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THE PASSAGE TO ADEN, CEYLON, MADRAS, CALCUTTA, THE STRAITS AND CHINA.

The “Peninsular and Oriental Company” having contracted with Her Majesty’s government to carry a mail monthly to the above places, also secure to passengers accommodation along the whole route, at a specific charge, and, by the same opportunity, drop at Malta or Alexandria those persons who do not contemplate proceeding any farther.

The steamers remain at Gibraltar six, and at Malta twelve, hours.

The charge for a passage varies according to the accommodation occupied and the distance to be travelled. On reference to Appendix A, the reader will find the fullest information, with a list of the Company’s ships and the lines on which they are at present stationed.

As berths in all these steamers vary in comfort as well as price, persons who have determined to proceed to India or the intermediate ports, at a particular date, cannot be too early in their application and choice. On these points every information is most readily and courteously given at the office of the “Peninsular and Oriental Company.” But if the party going be, from his absence from town or inexperience in business, under the necessity of employing an intermediate agent to secure a passage for him, he would do well to select one thoroughly acquainted not only with the vessels themselves, but with all that appertains to them.

As a general rule, we may remark that these steamers are liberally provided with all that passengers can possibly desire. A good table is kept, and the cabins are comfortably and conveniently fitted, and sheets, pillow-cases and towels are supplied. It may, however, be as well to give some precise information as to the possible requirements of a passenger; for a simple statement of what the steamers do provide scarcely involves a specification of the articles not to be found on board. Let it be stated, then, that there is no sort of occasion for bed or table-linen, a sofa, wash-hand-stand, looking-glass, boot-hooks, jugs, tumblers, blacking and brushes, or those “overland bedsteads” which we see continually advertised; but it will be prudent to be provided with a large rug, an air pillow, and a counterpane or resai (wadded coverlet); for it is very probable that, on getting into a warm latitude, the traveller will prefer sleeping on deck, and the steamer’s bedding is not allowed to be carried from its place for such purposes.

The steamers leave Southampton on the 20th of each month—provided the luggage be sent down in due time.[1]Passengers need not leave London till an early morning train on the day of embarkation. Those who intend sleeping at Southampton the previous night should bespeak beds. The vessels are moored alongside the quay in the docks, and the hire of a truck from the railway to the steamer is one shilling. Flies also are in constant attendance; in fine weather, however, the distance is an agreeable ten-minutes’ walk or less.

The trunks in which clothes for the voyage may be packed, should be regulated by the calling or capacity of the traveller. If he be a military or medical man, and, therefore, liable to much marching about in India, bullock-trunks, specially made at the outfitters, are preferable, as they are permanently useful. Passengers are strongly recommended to adopt trunks or portmanteaus of the following dimensions, viz.:—length, 2 feet 3 inches, breadth, 1 foot 2 inches, depth, 1 foot 2 inches, and to have their names and the port of debarkation distinctly painted on each package. No package or baggage should exceed 80 lbs. in weight, otherwise it may be delayed in Egypt. The portmanteaus should be of leather, or material not liable to injury or breakage in handling.[2]

The following are the leading points of the “Peninsular and Oriental Company’s” regulations:—

Although there is positively no restriction as to the quantity of a passenger’s luggage, the excess of that allowed being paid for, still it is obvious that when a hundred persons are travelling with the speed of a mail through Egypt, every extra-package becomes an incumbrance, if not a positive nuisance; for it renders the timely arrival of those absolutely required very doubtful. It is, therefore, advisable that passengers should confine themselves strictly to the quantity of luggage necessary for the trip, sending so much as they may wish to have in India by the long sea route a month or two previous to their departure. The adoption of this course will spare them much annoyance and expense on the journey.

As by the Company’s regulation no trunks, boxes or portmanteaus are allowed in the cabins of their steamers, passengers should provide themselves with a good-sized leather or carpet-bag, in which should be packed all the clothes, &c., required for immediate use; and this bag may be kept in the cabin and replenished from time to time from the trunks, to which the passengers have access every other day. This bag should be taken on board with the passenger; but the trunks and other baggage should be put on board two or three days before sailing.

We have now fairly started with our passengers from Southampton. The steamer boils and bubbles on her course, and in five days runs to Gibraltar, sighting the Spanish and Portuguese coasts. The passengers soon conquer the annoyance of sea-sickness; new acquaintanceships are rapidly formed; employments and pastimes arranged, and, by the time “the rock” is reached, the real pleasures of the trip begin to be fairly appreciated.

Gibraltar.—From the title so often given to this pleasant little port and garrison—”the Rock of Gibraltar,”—the traveller expects to find a barren, inoccupable mass, as inhospitable to its friendly visitors as it was unapproachable to our foes; instead of this, the eye, after entering the bay, is greeted with the sight of a luxuriant vegetation, distributed into gardens, groves and plantations. After the visit of the pratique officer, boats approach the newly-arrived vessel, to take on shore any passenger who may be disposed to land for a few hours. The club-house and Griffith’s Hotel offer temporary accommodations, and to one or the other the traveller may betake himself. He soon, however, is tempted, by the brilliancy of the sky and the warmth of the temperature, to wander abroad, and inspect the new scene that presents itself. The Commercial Square, formerly the Grand Parade, offers the first object of attraction. The sales by auction carried on here all day, draw together a motley population, whose costumes and physiognomy alone are a study for the stranger. Greeks, Turks, Jews, Arabs, &c., mingle together in picturesque confusion. The streets of Gibraltar are narrow, the houses low, irregular and ill-fashioned; yet are there a few public buildings worthy of a passing notice. The Exchange, erected during the government of Sir George Don, the Catholic church of St. Mary, the court-house, the Moorish castle, within which are some remarkable excavations, the residence of the governor (which was formerly a convent), the Protestant church, the garrison and library, are the principal edifices.

Gibraltar being but five miles long, the whole place may be seen, on horseback or in carriages, easily obtainable, in a very brief space. Proceeding southward, the visitor stops for a moment at South Port, where, over the gate, he sees the arms of the Emperor Charles V. richly embla zoned, supported by those of Philip II. Not far from this, are the Alameda, public walks and grounds tastefully laid out. In the centre of the gardens is a statue harpooning a fish, which was formerly the figure-head of a Spanish vessel taken at Trafalgar, and near this, a column bearing a bronze bust of the Duke of Wellington.

Leaving the walks, the next object of interest is San Michael’s Cave, a great natural curiosity. The whole rock (Calpe) is hollowed out and perforated by caves. The fantastic forms assumed by the stalactites give these recesses the appearance of work done by ingenious human hands. Martin’s Cave, not far from San Michael’s, corresponds in character with, but is smaller in dimensions than, the latter. The wild monkeys that inhabit the place afford much entertainment by their freaks. Extending the ride to Windmill Hill, we reach the Governor’s cottage, built by General Fox as a summer residence. It is pleasantly situated close to the sea. From this the ride may be extended to EuropaPoint, Rosia, in the vicinity of which is the Naval Hospital, capable of holding 400 patients. From Rosia along the whole range of the western side to Sand Port is a continuation of works, batteries and bastions.

As the period of the steamer’s detention (six hours) will scarcely enable the visitor to see more than the above, we do not think it necessary to extend our description. We will merely add, as a guide to those who are inclined to make purchases on shore, that accounts are kept in dollars, reals, &c., but English weights and measures are in use.

After quitting Gibraltar, steaming along the coast of Algiers, you soon reach the famed island of Malta, where the outward-bound coming free from the imputations of plague, which cover the homeward passenger, are at liberty at once to go on shore and see the “lions” of the place.

If the period chosen by the traveller for his voyage should admit of his reaching Malta between November and April, he will be enabled to regale on oranges, for which fruit the island is much celebrated. Other fruits, such as strawberries, figs, pomegranates, grapes, apples, pears, peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, melons and prickly pears, are likewise to be had then. The climate of Malta is agreeable enough to tempt the visitor to prolong his stay, and, indeed, in the instance of pulmonary and other complaints, the atmosphere has often been found most serviceable. Its salubrity may be judged of from the fact of the range of the thermometer being remarkably equable; seldom falling below 50° in the month of January, or rising above 88° during the summer months.

The most remarkable edifices in Malta are the churches and the Albergas; which latter are now converted into public offices or other establishments of a useful nature. Their exterior denotes the end of their construction and the various sections of Knights of St. John, under whose auspices and for whose purposes they were raised.

These Albergas are now appropriated to government offices; one is occupied by the Malta Union Club, two others as courts of law, a fourth as the Civil Arsenal and Government Printing Office. The Auberge (or Alberga) de Castile is occupied by the officers of the English garrison; the Commissary-General tenants the Auberge de France—and so on.

The church of St. John holds the first rank among the numerous churches and convents of Malta. The interior is of an oblong form; the uppermost part, which forms the choir, is ornamented with an admirable piece of sculpture in white marble, on a raised base, representing the baptism of Christ by St. John, in two figures as large as life. The semicircular roof which covers the nave is adorned with paintings illustrative of the life of the above-mentioned apostle. The pavement is composed of sepulchral slabs worked in mosaic with various-coloured marble; many of them contain jasper, agate, and other precious stones, the cost of which must have been very great. These cover chiefly the graves of the knights and other servants of the order. The grand altar, which stands at the uppermost part of the nave, is very sumptuous, and deserves notice, on account of the various-coloured marble and other valuable stones of which it is constructed. The chapels of the different languages of the order, which run parallel with the nave, form the two aisles, and are very splendidly decorated. The roofs are constructed in the shape of a dome in the interior, and are profusely carved with different ornaments in alto-relievo, as also are the walls. The whole was gilded during the reigns of Rafael and Nicolas Cotoner, as appears from an inscription over the entrance on the west side of the building. The arches of these chapels correspond on both sides, and leave their interior quite exposed to view, as you pass down the nave. The second arch covers the chapel of the Portuguese knights. Over the altar is a drawing of St. James; and on the side-walls are two other paintings, representing some traditionary scenes in the life of that apostle.

Besides the church already mentioned, there are three others in the city, which belong to the Government: viz., the Church of the Jesuits in Strada Mercanti, Di Liesse on the Marina, and St. Rocco in Strada St. Ursola. The church of Di Liesse belonged to the Knights of France. The walls of this building are adorned with gifts devoted to the Virgin; the fulfilment of vows made in time of affliction, in order to obtain her commiseration. The boatmen hold this church in peculiar veneration.

The two parish churches of the city are those of St. Domenico and St. Paolo; the former is connected with a monastery of Dominican friars; the latter is a collegiate church, situated in the street of the same name. The other monkish orders are those of the Augustinians, Carmelites, Franciscans, and the Minori Osservanti, or Reformed Franciscans, all of which have churches connected with their respective convents. Besides these, there are two large nunneries, one of Ursoline and the other of Sta. Catarina nuns; but the rage for this species of seclusion has very much subsided in Valetta. The former establishment is nearly empty, and the latter is receiving but very few additions. Two other churches in the city, one dedicated to Sta. Lucia and the other called Delle Anime (of the Souls in Purgatory), belong to the public. The Greek Catholics have also a small chapel, dedicated to Sta. Maria, in Strada Vescovo. By far the finest specimen of modern architecture is the Protestant church, built at the charge of Queen Adelaide, who sojourned for a short time at Malta.

Next to the churches are the Military Hospital, the Monte di Pietá, the Government University, the public and garrison libraries (the building containing these being one of the finest specimens of architecture in the whole town), the Castellaria, the theatre and the Banco dei Guirati. There are several antiquities in the public library, together with periodicals and newspapers. The Indian files received at this library will enable the outward-bound passenger to obtain later information of the state of affairs abroad, than he might have had when leaving England.

The traveller who sojourns a few hours only in Malta, after walking in the streets of Valetta, or looking through the imposing defences which surround it on every side, over the apparently arid or sun-burnt undulations of the island, frequently abandons all further interest in the spot—singular by nature and art—and reposes quietly on the information of some writer possessing little more actual knowledge of the island, but who may have furnished his readers with some highly-coloured descriptions of its early history, or dilated on the chivalrous bearing of its late masters, the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. Without wading through these literary labours to discover “a grain of millet in a bushel of chaff,” we merely desire to introduce to the sojourner an agreeable mode of spending a few leisure hours in visiting other portions of the island. By reference to a map, he will find little difficulty in wending his way to any part of it; he may pass from one extremity to the other without a chance of molestation or interruption, other than the occasional application for alms; for Malta has professional and other beggars in abundance, the result of an overwhelming population in proportion to the size and resources of the island and the thoughtlessness of marriages, contracted frequently without a prospect of supporting a family.

Passing out at Porte Reale—the gateway at the top of the principal street of Valetta—and crossing the draw-bridge, the stupendous defences of the city become apparent—deep ditches—every approach enfiladed, or covered by bastions surmounted with bristling cannon. From this portion of the works the road opens on the front of the public garden;[3]a narrow promenade, of considerable extent, confined between stone walls, on the esplanade between Valetta and the extensive suburb of Floriana, around which are thrown the outer defences of the city, extended like the former, from the great harbour on the east to the quarantine harbour on the west. Holding on the main road, to the left of the garden gate, we pass through Floriana, the gate of St. Anna (the inner gate of this line of defence), and by Porte des Bombes, reach the glacis of the works, and here commences the country of the island of Malta.

Three main roads conduct to the different villages or casals, some twenty-three in number, besides the hamlets of Pietá, Sliema, San Guiliana and Casal Paola. The road to the right (leading to the western end of the island), keeping the foot of the glacis, opens on the Pietá, one of the most imposing spots in Malta, with a pretty extensive row of houses, generally good, extending for about a mile on the bank of the quarantine harbour. At about a mile farther on is the populous and large casal of Bircharcara, containing some five or six thousand inhabitants. From the immediate extremity of the Pietá (without proceeding on to Bircharcara), a road to the right, over a small stream, leads to Sliema and San Guiliana, the resort of those who pursue sea-bathing and seek a summer residence in the country, and containing many good houses. Passing through the last-mentioned hamlet, a road (inclining to the left) leads down to Casal Bircharcara, and a carriage may go over the whole ground safely. From the eastern or extreme end from the church of Bircharcara, there are two roads, that to the west, of some two miles extent, to Nasciar, and hence to the right to Casal Gargur, but a casal of no particular interest and road indifferent; after passing by the front of the church, or rather round the greater portion of it, a road to the left conducts to San Pauls Bay, where St. Paul is said to have been ship-wrecked. The view from the high ground, after passing Nasciar, and overlooking a line of defence against the approach of an enemy, on this otherwise apparently natural barrier, is, perhaps, one of the best and most striking in the island, embracing the western extremity even to the island of Gozo, with St. Paul’s Bay and its tower quietly reposing in the valley. The distance to St. Paul’s Bay from Valetta is about eight miles, and the road good even for carriages.[4]About four miles farther on from St. Paul’s Bay, and presenting more hill and dale than may be found in the general features of the island, you arrive at Melleha, where the devotees of both sexes resort. There is nothing particularly interesting in this spot, encircled by deep ravines and sterile rock; but, with some gardens in its vicinity, stands a small church (pretty liberally stored with votive offerings), with a court-yard, surrounded by small cells or chambers, to which the devout repair, and occupy, as choice, occasion or their vow may dictate. Beyond this point, some four miles leads to Mafra, the usual ferry to Gozo; but the only carriage that could undertake this portion of the road must be a calesse—deep sand from the Bay of Melleha and a road intersected by rock being the means of approach. Returning back to Nasciar, and coming in front of the church, a street leads on to the right to the casal of Musta, having nothing remarkable in it but a colossal church (encircling the old village church), which has been some years in the course of building, and, in respect to the progress had in its construction, may never be finished.[5]Passing through this casal (but avoiding the turning to the right over a well-constructed bridge, crossing one of the numerous ravines in the island, for that would only lead to an uninteresting part of the island, that in olden times was designated on the maps “desert,” and is now almost without population), along a narrow road or lane, of trifling extent, across a rivulet, and on a road leading directly to the western point of the Binzamma, the most elevated and conspicuous portion of the island, the road is again covered by a line of defence; beyond this, it winds round the Binzamma, and, taking the turn to the left, one of the natural curiosities of the island, as it is pointed out, will be found in a nest of caves called “Ancient Tombs,” now inhabited by some poor families employed in agriculture in the vicinity.[6]An indifferent road from this point leads to Citta Vecchia; but, as it possesses no interest, and can be traversed only by the equestrian, we turn back to Casal Musta; immediately, therefore, in front of the new church, is the street or road leading, on the left, to Casal Sia (San Antonio, with its gardens, of which we will speak hereafter), through this casal and Casal Bazan, between which the line of demarkation is scarcely apparent to the stranger, we come back to Bircharcara at the point where the road turned off to Nasciar, and, either by ascending to the main road, between Valetta and Citta Vecchia, diverging to the right, or passing through Bircharcara and the Pietá, we return to Valetta. On the other hand, leaving Musta, as before directed, and inclining to the right, a road leads to Citta Vecchia, the great point of attraction to the generality of travellers who visit Malta. But of that hereafter.

The centre and principal road in Malta, proceeding as before from Porte des Bombes, between Valetta and Citta Vecchia, is a spacious and well-kept road (like all others in the island), without turnpike trusts or imposts on the traveller. To the archway of the aqueduct, a distance of two miles, it may be considered the great suburb of a rich city. Here are various houses of noble aspect on the road, near the archway of the aqueduct-one called “the Lions”—from two effigies in stone of that sovereign of the forest, placed over the entrance; this the late governor, Sir F. Bouverie, selected as his country-house, in preference to the more imposing and regal residence of St. Antonio.

From the archway of the aqueduct (under which passes the main road to Citta Vecchia) the view now on either side, excepting only some casals in the distance, presents barren and uninteresting fields, so surrounded and intersected by stone walls, that it appears difficult to determine to what end these enclosures were erected, except before the opening of spring, when the lucerne with its dark green leaves and beautiful red flower over-topping the walls, convinces the passenger of the fertility of the soil. At about the fourth or fifth mile from Valetta, a road to the right leads to Santa Louisa and the gardens, unlike any other place in Malta. In the style and taste of the day, in which it was formed by the Grand Master, here are well-paved walks, terraces and flights of steps, with ponds or reservoirs, and water-works, on a small scale—art subduing nature, but apparently appropriately designed for its position. This has ever been accessible to strangers, either by a ticket of admission from the military secretary or aide-de-camp; and, under some governorships, even without that precaution. Leaving San Antonia and regaining the main road, you pass through Casal Attard,—a small casal with some good houses in it, but of gloomy appearance as compared with other casals.

From hence all is barren to the eye, until in the immediate neighbourhood of Citta Vecchia, where the fields appear more natural and to greater advantage. As you ascend the hill, you will find more guides from the idlers of the place, probably, than guests, who insist on giving their assistance where it is little required. Within the citadel is the cathedral, a very handsome church; without, is the suburb, properly Rabbato; you are shown the cave where St. Paul is said to have resided, a poor compliment to the hospitality of the inhabitants, for a more wretched place can scarcely be conceived. The church over this cave is like most of the churches of the island. Here also you are shown the catacombs, as these caverns are called; you descend by a flight of rude steps, but, were they well explored, an outlet on the level would, doubtless, be found, to determine their origin, like others of a similar character. Tradition offers many tales concerning them; but it may be left to conjecture, whether they were the habitation of saints, or the retreat of the peaceful inhabitants of the island, from the predatory visits of their Arab neighbours.

To the right of Citta Vecchia, an indifferent road of three or four miles leads to some gardens. Imtaklip is of no other particular interest than an occasional resort of parties from Valetta for a pic-nic. To the left, however, a good road, after passing a large convent, and still inclining to the left, is the Castle or Palace Verdali, of imposing appearance, but tenantless, and going to decay; below, in the valley, is the Boschetta, covered with pretty extensive groves of orange trees, the only truly agreeable retreat in the island, and almost daily resorted to by pleasure parties. There is a very small but uninteresting casal to the right of the road to the Boschetta.

The return to Valetta, in the most direct way, may be made by the same road; otherwise, after ascending the hill from the Boschetta, as far on the road as the Palace Verdali, a road branches off to the right, leading through the Casal Seggui; hence to Zettug, one of the largest and most populous in the island; and, descending the hill by a good road on the way to Casal Curmi, you have an extensive view of the surrounding country, embracing Valetta, the harbour, &c., in the distance. Casal Curmi, a large casal situated in the valley, has nothing particular to recommend it to the notice of the traveller; passing to the left through it, you ascend the hill to the arch of the aqueduct, and by the main road enter Valetta.

Starting as before from Porte des Bombes, at a short distance on the main road, a road branches off to the left, and winds round the head of the great harbour; hold the road to the right; after passing the fishermen’s huts, the road leads through the Marsa—a tract, to the superficial observer, the most cultivated in Malta; ascend the hill and Casal Luca, and about a mile after passing through the casal, at a small chapel, two roads branch off, the one to the right to Casal Michabiba; hence to Casal Creude, in the immediate neighbourhood of which is to be seen Macluba, the landslip, or, in whatever other way it may be designated; and, ascending the hill from the chapel close by, and bearing away to the right, you arrive at some mile and a half distance, at the rude remains of a Phœnician temple, recently explored. Returning back to Crendi, and at about the middle of the casal, a road to the right leads to Casal Zurrico, standing out rather conspicuously, from its site and size (the road to the left from the small chapel, on the road from Casal Luca, mentioned before, is the direct road from Valetta to Casal Chercof, a small village, and Casal Zurrico); passing out of Casal Zurrico, close by the eastern side of the church (the road to the left, in front of the church, leads to Casal Luca, mentioned before), you arrive at Casal Gudia; at the end nearest Valetta is a substantial mansion, with well-walled grounds, a fanciful tower, &c. During the blockade, when the French were in possession of Valetta, this was the head-quarters of General Graham, afterwards Lord Lynedock, commanding the British Forces. A windmill at the corner of the mansion marks two roads; that to the right leading through Casal Ascheach to Casal Zeitun: the latter one of the best casals in the island. The procession of St. Gregorico, on Easter Wednesday, at which the greater portion of the population of the island attends, terminates at this casal: one other casal in this direction, Casal Zalbar, a short distance from the Cottonnera lines, which encircle or cover the three cities, is somewhat out of the line of march, and had better be visited in connection with the Government works on the opposite side of the great harbour, including the three cities, and the Cottonnera lines, from which this casal is a trifling distance. We, therefore, turn down the street immediately facing the grand entrance to the Church of Zeitun, containing numerous excellent houses, and, following a good road of brief extent, arrive at Casal Tarscien, from thence onwards to the hamlet of Casal Bala, denominated by the English the “Deserted Village;” turning to the left, at the end nearest Valetta, and passing by the front of the new prison, a good road leads down and communicates with the road first taken, on the way to Casal Luca; here the traveller may either enter Valetta by Porte des Bombes, or, holding on the great harbour, pass along the Marina, and so enter Valetta by the ordinary road on landing at Malta.

The traveller may refer to the Guide Book at Malta for other places considered of importance; but as they are remote, like the Cave of Ben Isan, &c., their route is omitted here. There has been no attempt to describe places, or, indeed, distances, accurately; but, with the exception of the first route to Matra, the most remote casals are not more than six or seven miles at the utmost from Valetta, and a reference to the map at Malta will show the position and bearing of others less remote.

As a hint to travellers, especially those on horseback, who may consider this brief sketch a sufficient guide for an excursion, we may mention that they will find in every casal some idlers, who will insist on knowing where they are going better than themselves, and will mislead accordingly, by directing strangers to the only two points within the sphere of their knowledge or comprehension—Valetta or Citta Vecchia.

Between Malta and Alexandria there is no point of interest worthy of any notice; in fact, land is seldom sighted during the four days’ trip.

Alexandria.—We now arrive at this port.

For the guidance of the traveller in Egypt, we cannot give better directions than are supplied in the annexed letter from Mr. Davidson, the representative of the “Peninsular and Oriental Company,” a gentleman, whose courtesy, kindness and attention to all travellers passing through that country are universally admitted. Mr. Davidson repairs on board immediately the vessel arrives at Alexandria, and superintends all the arrangements for the whole journey thence to Suez. He writes thus:—

As the transition from heat to cold in crossing the desert is great, the range of the temperature varying from 94° in the shade at noonday to 72° at night, in the summer months, it is indispensable that travellers should be provided with warm clothing; and too great precaution cannot be taken to avoid exposure to the night air.

Taking this matter into consideration, we subjoin a thermometrical register recently kept in Egypt, which may be of service alike to the passing traveller and those who purpose sojourning for awhile in that country.

As the passage through Egypt en route to India differs but little, whether the traveller be hound to Calcutta or Bombay, we add to this division of our subject a short account of the only portion of the journey which can truly be called “Overland.”

Stay at Alexandria.—A delay of about three to four hours occurs at Alexandria, in examining the luggage at the custom-house and loading the boats with it. During this time the traveller may, if so disposed, pay a visit to Cleopatra’s Needle, Pompey’s Pillar, and the Pacha’s palace and arsenal; all of which may easily be reached on donkeys or in carriages in less than two hours, and at a very trifling cost.

The boats being ready, the whole party again assemble, and, embarking at the Mahmoudie canal, reach Atfeh in about ten hours, where the passengers are trans-shipped to the Nile steamers, and perform the trip to Cairo, 120 miles, in 16 or 20 hours, according to the depth of water in the Nile. The boat stops at Boulac, two miles distant from Cairo, to which place some walk, whilst others ride; carriages, horses and donkeys being prepared, and in
waiting. There are several hotels in Cairo, the “British,” “Oriental,” and “English,” the character and accommodation of each of which will be most accurately learned on reference to Mr. Davidson, to whom we have previously alluded.

Abstract of a Thermometrical Register, kept at Alexandria, in N. lat. 31° 13′, outdoor temperature, in the shade, for one whole year.

Months	Means							Extremes
	Mean temperature.	Mean daily variation	Mean maximum.	Mean minimum.	Mean temperature at 8 A.M.	Mean temperature at noon.	Difference of mean temperature of each successive month.	Extreme daily variation.	Extreme monthly variation.	Extreme maximum.	Extreme minimum
January	59.5	8.0	63.5	55.5	57.6	61.0	3.0	8	13	66	53
February	59.5	6.0	62.5	56.5	57.4	60.6	0.0	9	10	66	56
March	64.7	10.5	70.0	59.5	61.1	63.6	5.2	5	13	72	59
April	69.0	12.0	75.0	63.0	66.4	69.2	4.3	12	15	77	62
May	74.7	16.5	83.0	66.5	71.7	74.6	5.7	13	22	88	66
June	77.0	9.0	81.5	72.5	74.6	77.3	2.3	5	14	85	71
July	82.5	4.5	82.5	78.0	78.5	80.7	5.5	5	8	85	77
August	81.2	7.5	85.0	77.5	79.5	80.6	1.3	6	10	87	77
September	79.6	6.5	83.0	76.5	78.4	80.1	1.5	8	9	84	75
October	76.7	7.5	80.5	73.0	76.1	77.8	3.0	8	9	81	72
November	68.7	12.5	75.0	62.5	66.3	71.6	8.0	12	18	76	58
December	60.7	17.5	69.5	52.0	58.5	64.3	8.0	20	25	71	46
Annual Means and Extremes	71.1	9.8	75.9	66.0	68.8	71.7	3.9	20	25	88	46

The luggage is conveyed to Suez on dromedaries, and, as these animals travel slowly, those who do not desire to proceed to Suez by the first division of carriages across the desert, will have sufficient time to visit the lions of Cairo, which consist of the citadel, the palace, the mint, the petrified forest, the Rhoda garden (chiefly botanical), the Pyramids of Gizeh, and the Pacha’s palace and gardens at Shubra; or they may indulge in a bath, a luxury thus described in an article in the Asiatic Journal, by Mr. Stocqueler:—

Of the manner in which the ascent of the Pyramids is made, the following sketch furnishes an accurate description:—

A recent writer, describing this laborious operation, speaks of it thus:—”It is advisable, if bent on mounting to the summit, to disencumber yourself of all but your shirt and a pair of loose trousers; for the journey upwards must be taken rapidly, and cannot easily be accomplished with warm and tight clothing. A couple of Arabs leap on to the stones immediately above you, and offer you each a hand, while a third follows, to give you an impetus from behind, and catch you, in case of a slip. Up you go, panting and toiling, step after step (each three feet in height) and stopping occasionally to take breath, and receive the cheering congratulations of your rude guide—good, good, Inglese, berry good! and then, with an impatient grin and extended hand, ‘Baksheesh!‘”

We now come to the Overland part of the journey; viz., from

CAIRO TO SUEZ.[8]

The distance (ordinarily accomplished in about twenty hours, including stoppages) from Cairo to Suez is eighty four miles, and along the route through the desert there are seven station-houses. These station-houses are numbered from 1 to 7, and contain the following accommodation:—

No. 1. Nine miles from Cairo, stabling and a resting-room.

No. 2. Twenty miles from Cairo, contains two public rooms (one for ladies, and the other for gentlemen), two private rooms, and a servants’ room.

No. 3. Thirty miles from Cairo, stabling for relays of horses, with one resting-room.

No. 4. Forty-one miles from Cairo, the centre station, contains a large saloon, a ladies’ room, servants’ room, kitchen, a number of commodious bed-chambers, large water-tank, stabling, &c. Here, also, will be found, liberally provided, those “creature comforts,” which so essentially cheer and sustain the traveller on his way. Ladies, however, would do well to take in their basket, on leaving the steamer, a bottle of good water.

No. 5. Thirty miles from Suez, stabling and a resting room.

No. 6. Twenty miles from Suez, two public rooms, private rooms, and servants’ rooms. The same as No. 2.

No. 7. Nine miles from Suez, stabling and resting-room.

The whole distance is traversed without inconvenience, in carriages, on horseback, on chairs, or on donkeys; the latter a very superior animal to those in this country. The Egyptian ass is easy in his pace, capable of great fatigue, and, it is said, will perform the whole distance with but little provender.

Travellers now embark on board the Peninsular and Oriental Company’s steamer, and, as soon as the luggage has been shipped, and every other arrangement made, the anchor is weighed, and the steamer starts for Aden. Beyond certain historical associations, the Red Sea presents little that can interest the traveller in his brief and expeditious trip. The shores are dreary and barren, and are only agreeable to the eye of the landsman, because they present a somewhat less monotonous scene than the expanse of “blue above and blue below,” which distinguishes the ocean in parts remote from land.

Aden, which was formerly called “Portus Romanicus,” is a town of the Yemen, which, from its position, and now, on account of its recent occupation by the English, promises to become a commercial and military station of great importance. The town is built on the crater of an exhausted volcano, and is situate at the extremity of a small peninsula, formed of volcanic matter, and attached to the continent solely by a low neck of land from 500 to 600 yards wide, and which might be easily isolated by a canal. The harbour is a magnificent basin, capable of containing an immense fleet; and is entered by a narrow passage between two other craters. It would be easy to establish defensive works on the rocks, which would place the fort in safety against any attack. One redoubt has been already raised, as a security against the Arabs, ever ready to attack the English. From this point to the gate of the town has been traced a road of about a league in length, by which the defile is reached that forms the entrance to Aden. This defile is being fortified with a gate, evidently constructed to resist other attacks than those of the Arabs, and is about 100 yards long, and four or five wide; it is cut out of a rock which stands 150 yards above the level of the sea. A formidable battery, commanding the entrance, is in process of being erected above the rock on the left of the defile. A covered way, with an arch thrown from one rock to another, unites the system of defence which the batteries on the summit of the rocks on the left will complete.

In despite of sickness and desolation, the population of Aden has greatly augmented in a short space of time. When first occupied, the population did not exceed 4,000; it is now upwards of 30,000; and every morning at daybreak 50 to 200 camels may be seen coming into the town, laden with the produce of the interior, provisions, vegetables, &c., to console and comfort the otherwise benighted occupants of this extinguished crater. The fact is, the security to property afforded by a residence within the limits of British possession and influence, has contributed, in no inconsiderable degree, to this outward sign of prosperity.

An hotel on the sea-shore, kept by some enterprising Parsees from Bombay, and a great number of donkeys, attended by their drivers or proprietors (little woollyheaded urchins), offer to the passenger who may go ashore, the contrast of a dinner of fish and a ride to the town and cantonment of Aden. Beyond these, the attractions of the place may be represented by a cipher.

At Aden the steamer takes in a supply of coal, and then starts for Ceylon; which island she reaches in ten days, and where she remains but for a few hours. Here will be found a branch steamer ready to start for China; and, to the traveller thenceward, we can promise that this portion of the journey, touching at Penang and Singapore, en route, will surpass in picturesque and romantic scenery all that his eye has hitherto beheld—we do not mean to say that, in many parts of Europe or America, there are not isolated spots equally beautiful and sublime; but, whether, for a continuous sea-journey of so many miles, for the most part, in water as smooth as a “milk pan,” it can be equalled? certainly, it cannot be surpassed. The voyage from Ceylon to Penang is commonly made in six days,—the steamer stopping there six hours; that to Singapore in three days, with a stay of twenty-four hours; and, finally, to Hong Kong, in another six days. Four days under steam from Ceylon carry us to Madras, where, after another supply of fuel, we proceed to Calcutta, occupying four days in the trip; and there terminates our interesting journey. We have given a brief description of the three last-named places in the section appropriated to the details of the homeward trip, and therefore consider it unnecessary to offer any remarks here.

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TO BOMBAY.

The responsibility of this journey is divided, being firstly in the hands of the Peninsular and Oriental Company; secondly, of the Egyptian Oriental Transit Company; and, lastly, of the East India Company. Forethought and precaution are therefore recommended in making the arrangements necessary to secure the passage to Bombay throughout, with as little inconvenience and as much comfort as can be experienced under the circumstances above stated.

The Peninsular and Oriental Company allow a limited number of passengers to book for Aden, on the 20th of each month, and, when this can be effected, it is decidedly the most comfortable and least expensive mode of reaching Bombay. The East India Company’s frigates, that convey the mid-monthly mail from Aden to Bombay, afford good accommodation for a few persons; and the run is only one of ten days’ endurance.

The Peninsular and Oriental Company, under no circumstances, book the whole way to Bombay. Passengers wishing to adopt that course, and having fixed the date of their departure, should make immediate application to James Barberand Co., whose circular will be found at the end of this book, and whose advice and assistance will always be found useful to the Overland traveller.

Passengers who cannot adopt the first part of this route, so far as Aden, in the Peninsular and Oriental Company’s steamers, will find the following directions serve them in the time of need.

The Company’s steamers for Malta and Constantinople start from Southampton on the 29th of every month, at 1·30 P.M. (when the 29th falls on a Sunday, the steamer leaves at nine o’clock on the morning of the 30th), arriving at Malta about the 10th of the month.

Passengers for Alexandria and Bombay are conveyed from Malta to Alexandria by one of Her Majesty’s steamers, leaving Malta, on the arrival there, from Marseilles, of the London mail of the 7th of the month.

On their arrival at Alexandria, the same means of travelling are provided for passengers, as described in a previous part of this work; but the passenger, in this case, having only hitherto paid for his sea-journey to Malta £27 10s.—a further sum of £12 10s. has to be paid for passage from Malta to Alexandria, and then he has to make his arrangement with the Egyptian Transit Company, in order that he may reach Suez in time to embark in the East India Company’s steamer at that port, which conveys the mail to Bombay.

The Transit Company have established the following rates:—

From Alexandria to Suez, and vice versâ.
A lady		In vans across desert		£12
A gentleman				12
A child above ten years				12
A child of five years and under ten				8
A child of two years and under five				6
A child of under two years				free
A European female servant				10
A European man-servant or mechanic				8
A native female servant				8

Two cwt. of baggage is allowed at the £12 rate, and one cwt. for all below it, and 16s. per cwt. is charged for any excess on that weight.

Provisions are liberally supplied on the journey; but hotel expenses at Alexandria, Cairo and Suez, as well as wines, beer and spirits, are not included in the sum charged by the Transit Company. The following may be considered a fair estimate of the cost of the trip:—

	£	s.
Transit	12	0
One cwt. of extra luggage	0	16
One day’s board at Alexandria	0	8
Wine and beer	0	7
Ditto on journey to Cairo	0	7
One day at Cairo	0	8
Wine and beer	0	7
Ditto in the Desert	0	7
Half a day at Suez	0	5
One bottle of beer	0	2
Boat-hire on landing, and, probably, donkey-hire for sight-seeing	0	10
	£15	17

This amount will vary, of course, according to the mode of living and views of the passenger, but 15s. per day may be taken as a fair average for living, and 5s. additional, well managed, will pay the expense of seeing the sights of interest in or about Cairo, if a prolonged stay be contemplated or practicable.

Arrived at Suez, the passenger will have to secure his accommodation to Bombay, according to the regulations in the following pages.

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ROUTE VIÂ FRANCE, GERMANY OR ITALY.

An impression is abroad that parties leaving England for India may travel through France, Germany or Italy, embarking for Alexandria at either Marseilles, Trieste, or Naples, at as reasonable a cost, and with as little trouble as if they had taken their passage in the Peninsular and Oriental Company’s steamers from Southampton.[9]That such routes have their advantages, in the information and experience which travelling on the continent imparts to the intelligent, no one can deny; but that they are, in other respects, less troublesome or more economical than the sea-trip cannot by experience be maintained. In truth, no person can even compute with accuracy the actual expense of a land-journey; for, though the charges for posting by diligence, eil-wagon, vetturino, or rail, may be easily ascertained, it is impossible to estimate probable hotel charges, the extortions of gendarmerie, custom-house officers, passport employés, &c., or to foretell what detentions may take place en route; detentions which, if for only one hour beyond the time for the departure of the steamer, involve a prolonged stay of another month. We, therefore, feel justified in discarding all minute particulars respecting the routes we have indicated, simply mentioning that parties who do not seek the accommodation of the Peninsular and Oriental Company’s boats until they reach Malta or Alexandria, will have to pay (rateably) a higher sum for their passage to Ceylon, Madras or Calcutta, than would be charged them, were they to embark, in the first instance, at Southampton. We may add, however, that should any parties, in the face of the difficulties and objections, still prefer proceeding by the continental route, they will do well to limit their luggage to the least possible supply, and always refer, before deciding on the trip, to parties in London, who can give them the latest and fullest information on the subject.

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THE HOMEWARD PASSAGE.

To the “homeward bound” who engages his passage in the Peninsular Company’s steamer right through to England, we may address the following information:—

We will suppose him to be at Calcutta, or the provinces under the Bengal Presidency. Having made up his mind to proceed to England, and settled the period of his departure, he addresses the Agent of the Company in Calcutta, requesting him to secure a passage in the steamer appointed to proceed to Suez in the month he may have selected. The advertisements published in the Calcutta papers will indicate the arrangements made for the departure of the steamers, and the plans which the Company’s agents can supply will assist the intending passenger to select a cabin. The prices of accommodation which we have given in pounds sterling do not vary in India. The conversion of pounds sterling into rupees at the current exchange of the day will at once give the amount.

If the party be bent upon making a prolonged stay in Egypt, it will only be necessary to engage a passage to Suez, taking a certificate from the captain that the voyage has been made in one of the Peninsular and Oriental Company’s vessels, in order to ensure a passage from Alexandria to Southampton, at some future period, in one of the vessels of the same establishment, by paying the amount (exclusive of desert transit) that would have been exacted in Calcutta for the entire passage. If, however, the traveller, after remaining in Egypt, purpose visiting the Continent of Europe prior to his return to England, he need not trouble himself about the certificate.

Having engaged his passage, the homeward-bound will next think of his equipment for the trip. What we have said on this subject, in the instructions to outward-bound passengers, will equally apply to him. No cabin furniture whatever is required, nor will anything be needed in addition to the ample wardrobe which a resident in India generally possesses, beyond a couple of blouses, or light jean shooting-coats, and a sola hat.

Should the traveller be resident at Madras, or under the Fort St. George government, he should address his application to the Oriental Company’s agent at the Presidency, who will give him all necessary information as to the time when the steamer may be expected at Madras. He will be required to be perfectly ready to start, as the stay of the vessel in the Madras roads seldom exceeds the few hours requisite in coaling.

Officers on the Bombay establishment will, it is presumed, for the most part, leave their own Presidency in the East-India Company’s steamers, the regulations regarding which will be found in a preceding page.

The accommodation of the government boats terminating at Suez, the Bombay officer will be thrown upon his own resources for the remainder of his trip. He will accordingly do wisely, if he wish to get rapidly to England, to address himself a month before-hand to the agent of the Peninsular and Oriental Company in Egypt, to book him a passage thence to Southampton, and to arrange for his transit across the desert.[10]

Officers on sick-leave or furlough very frequently arrive without certain necessary documents, and are consequently subject to great inconvenience and expense. They should be provided with—

Certificate of length of service.
Certificate of being allowed a furlough.
Certificate of date to which pay has been issued.

If from Bengal, a certificate from the pilot in duplicate of the date of the ships leaving the Sandheads; and, if it be intended to claim income-allowance from the military fund, a certificate from the secretary to the fund of being entitled to such an allowance.

The voyage from India to Suez, as far as the attractions of the intermediate ports are concerned, presents very few charms for the traveller; and, even if they were numerous, the stay at each place is so brief, that there is scarcely any opportunity of enjoying them; but every change is acceptable to the landsman confined for several days on shipboard, more particularly if the scenes he beholds have a dash of novelty in them. Arrived at Madras, therefore (we speak now to the Bengal officer), he will pull ashore in one of the Mussoolah boats, whose peculiar construction and safe navi gation through the surf that perpetually rolls upon the shore at that port has always been a subject of surprise to the novice. If he have a friend at the Presidency, he will probably get the use of a carriage for the day, if not, he will be able to hire a “shigram” (palanquin carriage), or a “a bandy” (gig), and drive to all the most striking parts in the town. The Mount-road, with its numerous European shops, and monument to Sir Thomas Munro, the fort and the arsenal, the college, the public stables, the government house, the Athenæum library, the Black town, &c., will furnish subjects of inspection enough to occupy a few hours very pleasantly.

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Ceylon.—The next point on the route has its attractions for the Madras, as well as the Bengal, officer. An idea of these may be gathered from the following lively and intelligent description of a visit to Point de Galle, the coaling port, derived from “The Monthly Times,” and written by a gentleman who had touched there in the “Hindostan,” on his way to England:—

“On the seventh day, including our twenty-four hours’ detention at Madras, after leaving the Sandheads, we found ourselves, in the morning, approaching the beautiful Island of Ceylon, and anchored about noon in Point de Galle harbour. The entrance to the harbour was pretty enough—low rocks, over which the waves were beating and bounding, extended to the left, and a point of land seemed to jut out prominently to them, on which is built the Dutch fort of olden days, and which still retains its characteristic look of Dutch solidity and unavailing massiveness. There is no appearance of town from the ship; and very few habitations visible, or indications of much cultivation. The old Dutch church forms the principal object in the fort. You know I had letters from a family long resident at Galle. I proposed to see them on the following morning, but they would not hear of my remaining on board; so I landed in the afternoon, and soon found all was kindness and hospitality on the part of my new Cingalese acquaintances. The residence was formerly the old Government House, in the days of the Dutch. It was a large, roomy, substantial building; the doors were lofty, and the walls panelled in stucco, and painted with white and ochre; the fittings-up and furniture were plain, but substantially made, of carved ebony and satin-wood.

“On the following day, after a most gloriously comfortable night’s rest in a very clean bed and cool, capacious room, we started, after breakfast, in a small palkee-garree and pony, always easily obtainable on hire, to visit a country-house on a hill about three miles from the fort. The drive was through a beautiful and open, well-shaded road, with frequent interspersings of small cleared patches of rice and other cultivation. The road itself was narrow, with ditches on either side, but well metalled with broken granite. The comfortable houses of the burghers rose occasionally by the road side, on little shady eminences, here and there, and seemed neat and peculiarly cozy. They were chiefly oblong, tiled buildings, with a verandah to the front. These burghers are descendants either from the former Dutch or Portuguese possessors of this coast; and many that I saw were not a little darkened in their descent. On reaching the hill, which we had to walk up, I found the sun sadly oppressive; but we were amply repaid for the ascent, for the view from it was superb. The sea was visible, and almost everywhere open to us along the horizon, through the different hills; and every here and there, in our vicinity and below us, were beautiful valleys and richly cleared spots, with well-defined roads running through them, and occasionally cottages and huts dotted in every direction; the grand distant mountains forming afar a tall and varied background.

“I returned to the ship, after dinner, in the evening, much gratified with my visit. The mode of living at Ceylon is more English, in all respects, than at Calcutta; the table more simple—the servants fewer—and the whole character of domestic economy less Oriental than we are accustomed to on the Indian Continent; but the scenery of the island itself is far from partaking of this un-Oriental appearance; it realises, in everything, all we fancy and read of in descriptions of tropical islands. The closeness and abundance of the vegetation, the variety of Eastern jungle trees, the palm-like characteristic towering of the cocoa and beetle-nut tree, everywhere prominent in the luxuriant woods around you, all tend to give to Ceylon a picturesque and Eastern style of beauty, very different from the low plains and unvaried flatness of the country in Bengal.

“The dresses of the natives are different from Bengal; men wear combs like the women of other countries, and have a loose cloth round their legs, vastly resembling a petticoat. Their language is the Cingalese; an open and gentle sort of well-vowelled dialect, which sounds prettily and euphoniously enough, like the Malayan language.

“Trade altogether is not very extensive in Ceylon. At Galle there are but three or four merchants, forming the entire mercantile community of the place. At Columbo there are, perhaps, twenty merchants and agents, and there is a Ceylon bank. The local trade is confined to three articles, viz., coffee, cocoa-nut oil, and cinnamon, though a few folks are beginning to turn their attention to sugar. Coffee is reared in plantations on the higher lands, and in chosen spots in the interior. Some of the plantations have done well, and, after the third year, are described as having paid more with the one season’s produce than all the preceding and preliminary outlay and price of block put together. Several concerns, however, are losing, the soil being unsuitable; the present low prices for Ceylon coffee, in England, must utterly ruin them. It has been proved, that the only chance of success is with clearances on the forest and large tree lands: the plant thrives in these, though it takes three years to bear, and attains maturity only after the fifth year; it is expected to last ten years. Like all other concerns, those under proprietors themselves fare the best, and are easily distinguishable from those superintended by agents; but all managers live very uncomfortably. The superintendents get about 150 rupees per month, which is little enough, for supplies of the commonest necessity reach only from Kandy, or from a distance, and they are frequently without supplies at all, subsisting then on rice and the poorest produce of the villages around them. The Ceylon coffee itself ranks next to Mocha in the English markets; but recent prices must be insufficient to meet the charges of production. It is planted much in the same manner as with tea in Assam. After clearance, they set the plants at certain distances, when they grow to about the same height as the tea-tree. After blossoming and ripening, and before falling, the fruit is gathered; when there is a simple process, by some wheels and cheap machinery, to clear the berry from the pulp and skin.

“There are cinnamon gardens, near Galle, but they are not pleasing to look at, and assuredly there is no spicy and aromatic odour on the breeze, as the poets would fain establish in reference to this island, the famed Taprobane of old! When you bruise a twig or shoot of the cinnamon-tree and break off a small bit of the bark, the scent of the cinnamon is powerful and pleasant. The cocoa-nut oil is expressed much in the same manner as in Bengal, but it surprised me that, for domestic use at Galle, it was so expensive; they asked sixpence for two quart bottles of it, or, at this rate, about five rupees and more per maund. I should have expected it to be cheaper in Ceylon.

“The Rifle corps seemed to be a fine, well-disciplined body of men, chiefly Malays or their descendants. The regiment is officered like the line, and the dress, appointments, setting up and look of the soldiers were excellent.

“The salaries and receipts of the public functionaries and others in Ceylon are not quite so good as under the Company, but the habits of living, as I have before remarked, are more economical, and, I dare say, there is more money comparatively saved in Ceylon, than in the Company’s wider and more imperial territories.”

The new arrival at Ceylon is sorely beset by pedlars, who tempt him to invest a small portion of his capital in ivory snuff-boxes and knife-handles, tortoise-shell combs, card-racks, &c. A very few of these articles, purchased at a third of the price asked for them, may prove acceptable to friends in England, but we would recommend the Ceylon visitor to abstain from too large an indulgence in his generous inclinations, for ivory pays a heavy duty in England, and, after all, the articles brought home may be procured in England at as cheap a rate.

After leaving Ceylon and passing through the Maldive islands, which, though very low and level, are green and picturesque, no object of interest presents itself until the port of Aden is reached.

Quitting Aden, the shores of the Red Sea are frequently seen, but rarely approached during the upward voyage. In six days Suez is reached, and, as soon as boats can come off to the steamer, the passengers are landed and almost immediately conveyed by van (see previous details on this head) across the desert.

The town of Suez offers no kind of inducement to prolong one’s stay. Small, dirty and destitute of any architectural beauties or antique remains, it exhibits the worst specimen of a Mahomedan city in the whole Ottoman empire.

Arrived at Suez, it will be for the passenger who has not contracted for the entire trip home, to select his own method of getting to Cairo. The vans of the Transit Company offer unquestionably the most convenient and expeditious mode of carrying the traveller across the desert; but there are not wanting persons who prefer the romance and independence of a tedious trip on the back of a horse, donkey or camel. If there were any objects of interest worthy of an occasional halt in the desert, the inconvenience of this slow progress would have its counterpoise; but when we assure the traveller that there is not one single fragment of antique remains, one solitary picturesque spot, nay, nothing, beyond one tree, seven station-houses, and a multitude of rat-holes and camel-skeletons, to diversify the broad, glaring, sandy waste, he will not hesitate about the prudence of paying his £12—the whole cost of transit to Alexandria—or £9 to Cairo only, and joining the bulk of his fellow-travellers in the omnibuses.

From Cairo a freer choice is left to the traveller. If he prefer lingering in Egypt, he will find in a visit to the cataracts, the temples of Luxor, Carnac, &c., enough to engage his attention for an indefinite number of weeks. On these points, however, we have supplied information among the “Miscellaneous” matter at the close of this volume.

The route from Cairo to Alexandria, merely reversing the order of the trip, is described in a foregoing part of this volume. Arrived at Alexandria—provided the passenger has not booked himself in India for the entire transit to Southampton—it often becomes a question which route shall be taken to accomplish the remainder of the journey. The taste, inclinations or curiosity of some will lead them to Constantinople, to Syria, the Holy Land, the Grecian Archipelago; others may feel disposed to embark for Trieste, in order to visit Venice, northern Italy and Germany. Many chalk out for themselves a trip to Naples, Rome, Florence, Switzerland, &c., previously purifying themselves of the bugbear plague at Malta; and some few embark in the French steamer and make their way to Marseilles, there to serve quarantine, preparatory to a tour through France.

If it were as much our province to advise as it is our purpose to inform, we would suggest, as the result of the information imparted to us by many travellers, that it is, on many accounts, most desirable that persons from India should come straight to England, in the first instance, thence betaking themselves to the continent of Europe, if so inclined. The chief reasons for this proceeding are—the entire avoidance of the quarantines, which are often irksome and always expensive; the gratification of the natural affections by the earliest possible meeting with relatives and friends; the facility of obtaining information respecting the most attractive routes, and introductions to families on the Continent; the opportunity of selecting a companion from old fellow-soldiers, fellow-officials or Indian friends similarly bent upon a pleasurable excursion.

But these arguments may weigh as a feather against the determination to visit the interesting portions of Europe and Asia we have indicated, preparatory to placing foot in England. It is difficult to eradicate from any Anglo-Indians the notion that it is better to arrive cleansed of Indian rust and polished by a tour through civilised lands, or more prudent “to see the world” while you are in it, than to trust to the chance of quitting England when you have just tasted its infinite pleasures.

For the consideration of such reasoners, therefore, we submit some information respecting quarantines, the rules of which, however, are very changeable.

A passage to Malta from Alexandria may be procured in the “Peninsular and Oriental Company’s” boats for £12 10s. The French steamers charge £10, but this does not include the table, wines, &c., which are paid for separately to therestaurateur on board. The trip in the English steamer occupies four days. The French vessel goes first to Syra, to meet the Constantinople boat, and this occupies seven days. Arrived at Malta, intimation is given by the captain of the number of persons who meditate remaining there, and accommodation is accordingly provided for them in the lazaretto. Their stay will depend upon the nature of the bill of health carried by the vessel; it is not, however, at any time, less than twelve days, and may extend to twenty.

The regulations to be observed in the lazaretto are given on the following page.

GENERAL REGULATIONS.

To be observed by all Persons performing Quarantine in the Lazaretto of Malta.

Of the manner in which the time may be passed in a lazaretto, the following graphic sketch by Mr. Stocqueler, which appeared some time since in the “Asiatic Journal,” will convey no imperfect idea:—

“Upwards of 140 passengers left Alexandria in the Oriental, at the end of May, for some fifty had joined it from Bombay; amongst the latter were several heroes of Meanee and Hyderabad—fine young soldiers, who were covered with honourable scars received in the desperate engagements between Sir C. Napier and the Belochees. Never, perhaps, was a vessel freighted with so many who had distinguished themselves in conflict with the enemies of their country. Not less than twenty-six officers, who had seen service in Afghanistan, China and Scinde, paced the deck every day, and described the scenes which their own prowess and that of their comrades had, for the previous three or four years, rendered memorable in the history of British India. But of this large number of homeward-bound passengers, only three (one having two ladies in his family), quitted the Oriental at Malta. Those who wished to prosecute the rest of their journey by land had either failed to make the necessary provision,[11]or shuddered at the prospect of twenty days’ imprisonment in the lazaretto. Moreover, they flattered themselves with the belief, that they would be enabled to make the tour of the Continent when they had exhausted the various pleasures of glorious England. And so they steamed away to Southampton, leaving the few above alluded to—the writer of this among them—in the lazaretto, under suspicion of the crime of being afflicted with the plague.

“Meanwhile, let me assure the traveller from India, that even a three weeks’ incarceration in the Malta lazaretto is not intolerable, if, which is generally the case with the imprisoned, he is lucky enough to have one or two pleasant and intelligent companions. I have before me, at this moment, a memorandum, written after twelve days’ of captivity, and, as it may serve to re-assure future prisoners, by conveying some idea of the scenes, impressions, and occupations which diversify existence in the durance they are compelled to support, I here transcribe it:—

“‘Let me survey my prison, and its agrémens. I am lodged in two commodious apartments, overlooking the quarantine bay. I look out of the southern window of my verandah, and have the waters of the Mediterranean forty feet only below me. Opposite, at the distance of about 300 yards, and divided from me by these waters and the quarantine harbour, are the ramparts of the fortifications, surmounted by windmills, flag-staves, and a small Roman Catholic chapel. To the right is the termination of the bay, where a dozen of Greek, Austrian, and English brigs and barques lie in quarantine, sufficiently near to allow me to observe the operations on board. Behind all these, a little more to the south-eastward, is part of the suburbs of La Valetta, the evening promenade, gardens, hills, &c. To my left, is the entrance to the bay, overlooked on one side by part of the city of La Valetta, and on the other side by Fort Manvel, now used as a part of the lazaretto. This view greets me whenever I stand in the verandah, a recreation to which one is often tempted by the clearness, coolness, and crispness of the air, the beauty of the sky, and the rich blue of the water. Well, this of itself is something. Then, for moving sights, we have occasionally the arrival or departure of a steamer from Alexandria, or Greece, or the coast of Spain; of vessels from Tripoli, and Smyrna, and Syra; of speronaros from Sicily or the Italian coast; or we see a vessel released from quarantine, working her way out of the harbour. Early in the morning, four times in the week, the bell of the little chapel, on the summit of a rock opposite the lazaretto, tolls to prayers. The chapel is not more than twenty feet in breadth, and the same in depth. The altar occupies the back or southern side, and exactly faces us. The bell ceases, the priest dons his canonicals, and the matin mass commences, the responses being audibly chanted or muttered by the crews of Maltese and Italian vessels, who are either quartered in apartments beneath us, or employed on board the vessels. The door of the chapel closes, and the work or pastime of the day commences.

“‘Ha! there’s a splash!—a sailor in quarantine has stripped himself, and plunged into the water beneath his prison-door. Another and another follow him! How admirably they swim! the ease of the water-fowl, and the rapidity of the fish. See! one of them dives! How long he remains under water! Will he drown?—will he not be suffocated? not a bit of it; he rises to the surface, bearing in his hands some of the black, starry, thorny members of the crustaceous tribe. He has a knife in his right hand, which I did not observe before, and which he evidently took with him to dislodge the fish from their location in the rocky depths. Splash! and the strong swimmer is again twenty feet below the surface. Again, he rises—and again descends—and behold! he has accumulated a perfect breakfast of shell-fish! Meanwhile, the others breast the waves, diving, floating, playing, and rejoicing in all the muscular strength which the noble, healthful, and refreshing science calls into action. Well, a walk will do no harm—the verandah is sixty paces long, and forty or fifty turns will give one an appetite for breakfast. A. and B. have abun dance of conversation for the promenade, and when we have exhausted the pleasures of memory, we can turn to the pleasures of hope, and debate the possibility of an abatement of the quarantine or, at any rate, discuss the respective advantages and pleasures of going to Syra, to Naples, or Marseilles. We are tired now, and it is time to dress. Breakfast is ready—can anything be more satisfactory, or anything more tempting and wholesome? There are coffee and tea, and three times as many rolls as we can eat! The eggs are as large as the finest production of the English barn-door hen, and boiled to the exact point—half a minute less, and the albumen would not have coagulated; half a minute more, and they would have been as hard as a stone. And there’s a delicious dish of strawberries, brought only yesterday from the coast of Sicily, and plucked but an hour before their embarkation! And flowers too:—

‘The captive soothers of a captive’s hours.

“‘Carlo, best of servitors, knows my penchant, and decks the table with the rose, the pink, the carnation, and the fragrant thyme.

“‘Breakfast over, Mr. Cassolani is announced. He is the captain of the lazaretto; a courteous, intelligent old gentleman, of very correct notions and kind disposition. He is come to give us a list of the passengers who have just arrived at Marseilles, and to ask us to subscribe a trifle for a poor widow, whose husband, a guardiano of the lazaretto, died of apoplexy the day of our arrival. We have dropped our mites for the widow’s benefit, and Cassolani condescends to pick them up, though he will not receive them from our hands. This painfully reminds us that we are prisoners on the suspicion of the crime of plague—gens suspects. People ‘in pratique,’ as freedom from the lazaretto is called, will ‘walk with us, talk with us, buy with us, sell with us—but they will not eat with us, drink with us,’ nor pollute themselves by touching our persons or our clothes. Cassolani carries a stick, to keep us at a respectful distance, and there is a soldier of the 42nd Highlanders on the opposite ramparts, prepared to send a bullet through us, if we attempt to go abroad until we are fairly cleansed of the foul imputation.

“‘Cassolani departs, and S. and I go to chess. From chess we fly to books. It is three o’clock, and dinner is announced. For economy and society’s sake, we have made a table d’hôte, and the whole party dine together. It is true that B. looks suspiciously at one dish, and C. distrusts another; but, nevertheless, the whole style of the thing is good and clean, comprising the English and French modes de cuisine as well as could be desired. There is, for example, soup à la Julienne, and a dish of mackerel; roast beef à l’Anglais (the beef comes to Malta from Tunis, and, after serving quarantine, is fattened for the table); a fricandeau of sweetbread in a well-flavoured sauce; a stewed breast of mutton, mashed potatoes, a maccaroni, peas or French beans, or artichokes, an apricot tart, cheese, and a salad. Oranges, cherries, and strawberries compose our dessert, and we drink a pint of Marsala. What more would a man have?

“‘The sun declines, and the Maltese world emerges from its confinement. The telescopes now come into play, and we direct our views to the part of the town where the sempstresses congregate, and gaze out of the balcony windows, to catch the evening breeze, or anything else that may be passing. The fall of night brings with it tea and candles, and then books, draughts, chess, and—to bed!’

“Of the other agrémens of the lazaretto there remains nothing to notice, if I except the numerous boats which are continually coming and going across the harbour, often laden with females, who, in their black mantillas, with sparkling black eyes, and hair à la Madonna, resemble Spanish women.

“The expense of living in the Malta lazaretto is about eleven shillings per diem, as thus:—

	s.	d.
Breakfast	1	8
Dinner	3	0
A bottle of Marsala	1	3
Hire of Furniture	0	8
Servants’ Wages (including diet)	2	3
The Guardian (ditto)	1	10
	10	8

“This can be increased, if necessary, by a more abundant dinner, tea, or coffee in the evening, spirituous liquors, and a greater quantity of furniture; but it cannot be diminished. Washing costs about one shilling per dozen pieces, and sevenpence per diem for the diet of the blanchisseuse, who must come into the lazaretto to perform her functions. A capital circulating library keeps the incarcerated well supplied with books (at one penny per volume per day), andGalignani’s Messenger, and the Maltese papers can also be had on application to Mr. Mure’s establishment.”

Emerging from the lazaretto, the traveller is recommended to pass a few days in inspecting the town and the surrounding country (vide page 11), and then to repack his luggage, dispatching such as he may not require on his homeward trip direct from Malta, consigned to the care of his agent in London, with instructions as to the disposal of the same.

Those travellers who prefer visiting France viâ Marseilles, will find the lazaretto there, comparatively speaking, a sort of purgatory. We subjoin the regulations as published by the French authorities:—

WITH UNCLEAN BILL OF HEALTH.

WITH DOUBTFUL BILLS OF HEALTH.

WITH CLEAN BILLS OF HEALTH.

Of the Syra (Athens) quarantine, it is enough to say that it is more commodious and agreeable than the same establishment at Marseilles, and not so convenient as the one at Malta.

The Syra lazaretto is, according to the report of the latest visitors, exceedingly commodious and clean, and facing, as it does, the sea, where there are continual breezes, it is infinitely cooler than the city of Athens. The charges of the Trattoria are not greater than those at Malta (about eleven shillings per diem), and the detention in quarantine never exceeds seventeen days, and when a clean bill of health is brought by the French steamer from Alexandria, the duration of the imprisonment is very much less.

THE VOYAGE TO SOUTHAMPTON.

Quarantine, on arrival in England, being done away with (unless some special cause arise on the voyage home to render precaution necessary), the direct route is greatly to be preferred; and the ease and comfort which it offers as contrasted with the annoyances of continental travelling needs no comment.

On reaching Southampton, the steamer goes into dock; the whole of the luggage is forthwith conveyed to the dock warehouse, and the examination commences with that of the first person on the list.

Passengers are not required to attend in person when their luggage is examined. Those who desire to leave Southampton by train immediately upon arrival, or who do not wish to subject themselves to the annoyance of being kept in the docks waiting their turn, are recommended to deposit their keys (including name and address) with Mr. Hill’s clerk,[12]giving him, at the same time, a list of the packages, distinguishing such as contain articles subject to duty. For want of proper arrangement on the part of the passenger, we have known three hours pass in the examination of one gentleman’s baggage, with upwards of eighty of his fellow-travellers anxiously waiting for their turn. This arises, in the first place, from the large quantity of luggage which many bring; and, in the second, from the want of system in packing, distinguishing that which is immediately requisite from that which is unnecessary.

As passengers will be required to keep pace with the mails in either route, unless they arrange for a fortnight’s stay in Egypt, the system of having a larger quantity of luggage than is actually necessary cannot be too much deprecated.

The traveller is also apt to mix “duty goods” with personal luggage, in anticipation of their escaping notice. This is a “forlorn hope,” and leads invariably to the most rigid scrutiny of every package, thereby causing great delay. If the goods be such as trinkets, Bombay work-boxes, Dacca or Cuttack silver, China or India filligree packed in cotton, a still greater commotion arises at the custom-house, and we are not quite sure whether the circumstance does not render the articles liable to seizure and confiscation, under the quarantine laws.

The better plan by far, whether the traveller attend the examination of his luggage or not, is to separate all goods liable to duty, and put them in a case or trunk, with an inventory of its contents, and the value of each article separately stated,[13]and then leave them in charge of Mr. Hill, with instructions to forward them without delay. They can, of course, be examined at once; but we think it unfair to subject others to the inconvenience and loss of time that must consequently ensue. If the plan here recommended be followed, we venture to submit that it would be satisfactory to all parties.

A general tariff of East India fabrics will be found in the Appendix; but it is not generally known that all British manufactures that have been exported, and purchased out of Great Britain, are subject to a duty if re-imported. Being private property, however, they are generally released on petition to the Board of Customs, the petition being accompanied by a solemn declaration made by the owner before a magistrate, that the claim set forth in the petition is true. The reason assigned for this law is, that it protects and promotes English manufacture, by preventing a return of goods to the country that have once been exported for sale.

Parties who, from necessity or choice, bring servants from India, have too frequently so indefinite an agreement, that disputes and unpleasantnesses in settling with them frequently arise. We, therefore, earnestly recommend passengers to endeavour to do without personal servants, if possible; but if it be impracticable to dispense with them, we would suggest that the engagement should specify whether services cease on arrival,—if the servants are to be returned to India at the expense of the employer and—whether it shall be viâ the Cape or Overland. The agreement should likewise state the allowance that will be made for board-wages. Sixteen shillings per week is the sum charged at the lodging-houses for this class.

Persons arriving from India, particularly families, incur great expense by proceeding, on their arrival, direct to hotels or to furnished lodgings. In most cases they would do better by resorting to a boarding-house. There are many suitable establishments of this nature throughout England, where comfortable accommodation is afforded at a moderate charge. A letter of inquiry, written on the passage from Alexandria to Malta, and dispatched viâ Marseilles, would be answered, and wait the writer’s arrival at Southampton.

EXPENSE.

We must not omit to advert to the total expense of an Overland journey, for it is an important question to all who must go to India. We think it will be found, on a fair calculation, that this is, by no means, so much in excess of the cost round the Cape of Good Hope as people are led to imagine.

Independently of the cost, there are other important points worthy of consideration, which are frequently forgotten by those who suffer themselves to be engrossed by the mere pecuniary view of the question. For example, there is an amazing difference in the time consumed in the two routes. Proceeding Overland, there will be two months gained which may be either passed at home, or, if the attractions of England have ceased, can be employed in anticipating the stipulated period of a return to, or arrival in India. In the latter case—for we presume the traveller to be in the East India Company’s service—the Indian pay will be received two months sooner, and what is of greater moment, by far, two months’ time is gained in “actual service,” a consideration which, at some future day, may be of the last importance to the civil or military officer.

If to these advantages we add the difference in the cost of the equipment for a six weeks’ and a four months’ trip; the knowledge acquired by witnessing variety of scenery and diversity of manners; the effect on the health and spirits of perpetual change; the slight risk of delays from accidental want of water and provisions, damage in gales of wind, and other casualties which often drive sailing vessels into intermediate ports and prolong their voyage, there can, we should think, be no difference of opinion as to the superior claims of the Overland Route.

As the nature of the currency with which the traveller should supply himself is a question of great importance, we consider it within our province to remark, that sovereigns are, by far, the best coin that can be carried, for purposes of general supply. Letters of credit may be obtained, however, to be used in the event of accident rendering additional funds necessary; but it is prudent to endeavour to avoid a resort to them, for the exchange and commission on advances made upon such letters of credit, subject the drawer to considerable loss, an observation that applies particularly to Egypt. At Ceylon the sovereign is at a premium, frequently fetching twenty-one shillings.

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MISCELLANEOUS.

For the information of such travellers as purpose varying their journey, by visiting the various places which occur en route, we subjoin the following particulars:—

England to Gibraltar, by the Peninsular Steamers, calling at Vigo, Oporto, Lisbon and Cadiz.—These steamers start from Southampton on the 7th, 17th, and 27th of every month, at 3 o’clock in the afternoon. They proceed, in the first instance, to Vigo, to land the mails for that part of Spain, affording to the traveller a view of the magnificent scenery of Vigo Bay and the Bayona Islands. Thence the steamer proceeds close along the coast, which presents a splendid panoramic view of “mount and dale,” with numerous towns and villages interspersed, until she arrives off Oporto, where she stops to land mails and passengers, but does not enter the port. The passengers, however, will have a good view of the Fortress of San Joa da Foz, the Convent of the Sierra at Villa Nova, &c., so celebrated in the war between Don Pedro and Don Miguel; also the city of Oporto, which looks very picturesque from the sea. Leaving Oporto, she holds her course on for Lisbon, and, passing the Burlings Rocks, and Rock of Lisbon, will enter the Tagus generally on the fourth day from leaving Southampton.

Lisbon, &c.—The view of Lisbon, on entering the Tagus, is beautiful beyond description. The steamer usually remains here a day, before starting again on her passage southward for Cadiz and Gibraltar, and this will enable travellers to take a cursory view of the Lusitanian capital; but it is recommended that they should, if time permits, stop ten days here, proceeding to Cadiz or Gibraltar by the following steamer.

There are very good hotels now at Lisbon, and the town is greatly improved in cleanliness, no longer deserving the character for filth, &c., bestowed upon it by Lord Byron and others. Among the various interesting excursions which may be made in the neighbourhood of Lisbon, of course the spot where

will not be forgotten, and will amply repay the trouble of a visit.

From Lisbon to Cadiz the passage is made, in ordinary circumstances, in about twenty-six to thirty hours, and from Cadiz to Gibraltar in about eight hours.

Cadiz, Seville, &c.—The steamer remains at Cadiz only from three to four hours; but even this will enable the passenger to see the principal part of the town, which is exceedingly clean and handsome; and its appearance in approaching the bay of Cadiz singularly beautiful and striking. If the traveller can afford to stop for the next steamer, he may make an excursion to Seville, between which and Cadiz steamers run almost daily. Xerez de la Frontera, and Puerto de Santa Maria, with the extensive Bodejas of the wine merchants, are also well worthy of a visit.

At Gibraltar, the steamer on the Indian line will receive the traveller and convey him to Malta. In forming a calculation, it will be prudent to reckon on having not less than seven or more than nine days’ stay at each place, provided it be intended to go forward by the next steamer. Again, should a party desire to remain a fortnight in Egypt, previous to joining the steamer at Suez, he can be accommodated by the Peninsular and Oriental Company, who will convey him to Alexandria, and cause him to be taken up by the vessel on the Indian side at any later period.

The additional cost of a stoppage at any of the intermediate places would depend upon the tastes, habits and means of the traveller; it need not be much, and, to a party of friends proceeding thus, the journey, at the proper season, would be instructive and delightful.

From Malta the traveller can diverge to Constantinople; or a few hours will take him to any of the chief points of interest, either in Italy or Greece. It would far exceed our limits to give details of all the various trips that might be made from so central a point as Malta; luckily, however, there is no want of guide-books to classic ground—indeed, from the nature of the subject, any such guide, to be really useful, must in itself be much larger than the present volume.

Correct information as to the means of locomotion will be furnished by Mr. Holton, the Peninsular Company’s Agent at Malta, who can advise the traveller how to save much valuable time, and also how to avoid trouble and expense.

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A FORTNIGHT IN EGYPT.

In a previous page we have pointed out the principal objects of interest in the vicinity of Cairo and Alexandria, which are accessible in the ordinary transit through Egypt. In the event, however, of a prolonged residence in that country, either from necessity or choice, the list of videnda may manifestly be much extended.

Supposing the traveller, then, to start from Cairo, after inspecting the pyramids and other sights near that city, he can, by application to an agent on the spot, procure a boat, well supplied with provisions, &c., and proceed a considerable distance up the Nile. We have stated elsewhere that there is little besides the Pacha’s palace, Pompey’s pillar, and Cleopatra’s needle, to be seen at and in the neighbourhood of Alexandria, and therefore call the attention of the sojourner in Egypt to the interesting antiquities he will have an opportunity of examining on the borders of the Nile. Should he purpose limiting his trip to a fortnight, in order to be in time for the packet from Suez or Alexandria, it must be borne in mind that he can only visit a few of the places mentioned below, and must make arrangements accordingly; but, in case he should desire to extend his travels, we subjoin some notes from the best authorities, of the manifold wonders to be seen on the banks of the mighty Nile, and, if the reader require even further information, we commend to his perusal the admirable work on Egypt by Sir Gardiner Wilkinson.

The great pyramid of Sacarah contains a small chamber with a few hieroglyphics, differing in this respect from all others. The arched tombs (now nearly destroyed) proving the pre-Augustan existence of the masonic arch, is of the time of Psammeticus II., about B.C. 604.

Mit Raheny, a large colossus of Rameses II., the supposed Sesostris. Mounds and indistinct remains of Memphis. On the right bank are the quarries from which a portion of the stones for the pyramids were drawn. In one part, oxen are represented drawing a block placed on a sledge. A little to the south of the modern village is an inclined plane, leading from the quarries to the river.

Thirty miles farther to the south, at Atfeh, mounds of Aphroditopolis, but without ruins.

Left bank, false pyramid (Meidoum), difficult of access, on account of the canal.

Three miles beyond Feohm, and on the opposite side (right bank), remains of crude brick walls, with hieroglyphics on the bricks.

Right bank, eight miles N. of Meneijeh, is Fehnah, the ancient Acoris. Greek Ptolemaic inscription. Tombs cut in the rock with inscriptions. Roman figures in high relief. Quarries on top of mountain, with a tank for water.

Right bank, seven miles beyond Meneijeh, is Rohn Ahman, some grottoes and ruins of an old town.

Nine miles farther (right bank) Beni Hassan; remarkably interesting grottoes of the time of Osortixen (about B.C. 1740), in whose reign it is calculated that Joseph arrived in Egypt. The plans, explanatory of the trades, amusements, domestic arrangements, &c., of the ancient Egyptians, merit particular attention. In the columns of the best grotto we recognise the Doric Order. In the entablature over the doorway, observe that the ends of rafters are sculptured, instead of mutules and tryglyphs.

About a mile and a half S. is another grotto, a temple of Pasht, Bubastis, or Diana, the Speos Artemidos (date Thotmeh III., 15th century B.C.) The Speos is known by he name of Stable Antar. Near it are deposited cat mummies.

Right bank, at Shekh Abadeh, are a few remains of Antinöe, built by Adrian. The principal streets may be traced, as well as the hippodrome, towards the east, out of the walls. Grottoes in rock, &c.

This whole district has been famous for thieves, from the time of Bruce to the present day.

Right bank. El Rasheth, grotto in the mountain, with a statue represented on a sledge.

The ruins of Hermopolis, at Ashmonnoyn, have been destroyed.

The Pacha’s sugar-factory at E’Roamoon merits a visit.

Left bank. Ibayda, at the corner of the mountain, crude brick walls, and some grottoes not very remarkable.

After Shekh Said, the mountains go off to the E., leaving the river. A little beyond is Til el Amama, to the S. of which are the ruins of an ancient town, of which only the brick houses remain.

To the S. are grottoes in the mountain, with curious sculpture, and upon the mountain is an alabaster quarry. The sculptures represent a king and queen offering and praying to the sun, which shoots forth rays terminating in human hands, one of which gives the emblem of life to the king.

Six miles before Maufalouat, at El Hareib, are ruins of an old town in a ravine, in which are dog and cat mummies.

Near Maabdeh, opposite Maufalouat, are crocodile mummy-pits, difficult of access and dangerous.

E’Siout, the capital of the Said, and standing on the site of Lycopolis, merits a visit. The gardens are celebrated. Visit the grottoes in the mountain, if it be only to enjoy the beautiful view, which is, perhaps, unequalled in Egypt. The mummies of the wolf are occasionally found.

The remains of the splendid temple of Antaopolis have been sapped and carried away by the stream. A few stones only serve to point out its site at Gau (right bank).

Right bank. Shekh Eredi, where a Moslem saint, transformed into the form of a serpent, still performs very wonderful cures upon those who can pay. Some small grottoes on the left bank. To the west, Loohag, near the corner of the mountain, are remains of Athribi. Inscription in stone, in a ruined temple. Grottoes in the mountain.

To the west of this is the white monastery, Deira-bow Sehwoodee. It has very much the appearance of an Egyptian temple, having a cornice and tomb, and is supposed to have been founded by the Empress Helena. Like the other Deirs, it is inhabited by Christian peasants.

Right bank. At Ekhmin, nearly opposite Loohag, are remains of Panopolis. A large mass of stone contains a Greek inscription of the temple of Pan.

Left bank. Menshie, eight miles beyond Ekhmin, remains of a stone quarry. Ptolemais Hermii.

Left bank. Abydus, three hours’ ride from Girgeh, and two hours from Bellianeh. Take donkeys at Girgeh and send the boat on to Bellianeh. When last at Abydus, I was entertained for the night at the “Deir,” to the north or north-west of the village. The most remarkable monument is what Strabo has described as a “Memnonium,” a very singular building, consisting of several parallel arches or arcades, leading, he says, to a tank, now concealed. The arches are notmasonic, but cut out of large masses of stone and it is this circumstance which has, in a great measure, given rise to the error, as to the arch not having existed previous to the Augustan era. The building was begun by Osirien, the father of Sesostris, and finished by his son.

To the north of the Memnonium, is the small temple of Osiris, built, or at least finished, by Ramses II., and remarkable for having a sanctuary made of alabaster, for the reception of the famous tablet of the kings, which, next to the Rosetta stone, has been of the greatest assistance to the students of hieroglyphics. The Necropolis has been robbed to form the collections of Salt, Drouetti, and others.

Right bank. How (Diospolis parva)—few remains—vestiges of a temple of late date, and about a mile and a half to the S., of other mounds.

Left bank. Dendera (Tentyris) opposite Genneh. The principal temple was consecrated to Hathor, the Egyptian Venus, and not to Isis. The most interesting, as well as most ancient sculptures, are outside, at the western extremity, where we see Cleopatra and her son Casasion. The sculptures above are of the time of Augustus, as are those of the lateral walls of the Naos. The pronaos presents the portraits and names of Caius, Claudius, and Nero, as well as Tiberius, by whom it was constructed. The pylon, leading to the temple, is of the time of Domitian and Trajan. The Peripteral temple to the right, is the Typhonium, and immediately behind the great temple is a small one consecrated to Isis. The pylon towards the south is connected with the latter, and was raised in the reign of Augustus. The walls of the town, and a second wall for the sacred edifices, may be traced, and there are, I believe, some tombs in the mountain behind the town, that have not been properly explored.

Right bank. Quoph, the ancient Coptas—ruins of town and temple—small Roman-Egyptian temple, in the village of El Qalah, towards the N., forming once a part of Coptas, (Qoos, Apollinopolis parva). No more remains left, but a monolith converted into a tank, and to the north of the town is a well.

Thebes (Diospolis magna), on the eastern side, consisting of Karnak and Luxor: the Lybian Suburb on the west bank, consisting of Gormah, Medinet Haboo, the tombs of the kings, queens, &c.

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Karnak.—At least fifteen centuries combined to raise the great temple, the different ages of the various portions of the edifice being distinctly traceable, from the time of Osortiren I. (B. C. 1740) to the Ptolemies. On approaching the great western propylon, observe the holes (almost like windows, and by some described as such) for fixing the flag-masts, as well as the recesses below, in which they were planted. After looking at the great hall of columns, and the obelisks, &c., notice particularly the granite sanctuary, which is a restoration of one destroyed by the Persians. It was raised by Alexander, in compliance with a vow of Philip. On the sandstone wall that encloses and protects this sanctuary, observe (north wall) a very curious and rich offering, in which a Pharaoh presents to the temple, obelisks, flag-masts, gold, silver, &c. The sculptures deserve particular attention. Those on the outside of the southern wall relate to the conquests of Shishah, who plundered the temple of Jerusalem. The name of the place (Joudamallah) is legible on a cartouche,—one of thirty led captives before the god of Thebes.

The whole north wall is covered with historical sculptures, all of which were originally painted, representing the conquests of Osirien, the father of Sesostris. Some little attention is required to see them well. One group is more curious than the rest: the king has caught his adversary with the bow-string, and is decapitating him. Notice the triumphal return to Thebes, and remark the Nile (distinguished by crocodiles) with a bridge thrown across it.

To the south of the great temple is a tank, then come several immense propyla, part of an avenue of sphinxes, and lastly some remains of a considerable temple which was surrounded by a lake.

To the north are other remains, with a handsome propylon of Ptolemaic date, and an avenue of sphinxes.

The temple, second in importance at Karnak, is of the Pharaonic period, but approached by a pylon of Ptolemaic date, at the extremity of the great avenue of sphinxes leading to Luxor. On the right of the first or hypœtheral court, notice a sculpture illustrating the manner in which the flag masts were raised before the temples. Adjoining this temple, and on its west side, is a small temple of Oph, in which travellers sometimes lodge.

From Karnak to Luxor, it is easy to trace the line of sphinxes, which connected the palace of the latter with the temples of the former.

Luxor, with the exception of the sanctuary, is entirely Pharaonic, having been founded by Amanoph III., and finished by Rameses II., in the 15th century B.C. The granite sanctuary, like that of Karnak, is a restoration, and of the same age. In one of the halls, approachable from the river side, observe a curious set of sculptures, relative to the birth of the founder of the palace. His mother, the queen, is seated on the stool of accouchement, surrounded by midwives and genii. The latter present him the emblem of life. A little farther on, the infant is presented to and caressed by Amunre; and Thoth, the god of letters, is choosing for him his prenomen, “Sun, Lord of Justice and of Truth.”

To see the interesting sculptures on the great propylon, it is necessary to visit the palace at an early hour. They relate to the conquests of Rameses II., but much attention is required to make out their details. In the midst of the fortified camp is a lion, the companion of Sesostris in war.

Lybian Suburb.—To see the tomb of the kings, one night should be passed in the valley of Biban el Melook; but the entrance of one of the excavations affords sufficient accommodation. That of Belzoni is usually preferred.

Belzoni’s tomb (that of Osirien, whose conquests are de picted on the north side of the great temple of Karnak) is the most magnificent; next to that, the tomb of Rameses III. is the most interesting. It is near an angle of the rock, and will be readily distinguished by the recesses on either side of the principal shaft. These little cabinets contain some exceedingly curious sculptures or paintings, and it is from one of them that Bruce drew his harp scene.

The tombs of the queens are in a separate valley, to the west of Mehdenet Habor.

At Goorneh (old Goorneh) is the palace of Osirien. In the Aposiet are some remains of a very ancient temple, of which a portion is cut in the rock,—an arch (not masonic) very similar to those of Abydus. Between the Aposiet and the Memnonium are many tombs deserving attention.

The Memnonium (now perhaps more properly called the Rameseion, i.e., “Rameseseion,” the “house of Rameses”) is the most uniform and elegant of Egyptian structures. Pay particular attention to all the battle scenes, to the immense statue of Rameses II., supposed to have weighed nearly a thousand tons, to the circumstance of the bases of the columns of the hepastyle being made seats—to a very remarkable sculpture at the western extremity of the hall—to the private apartments which follow—the Pharaoh seated in the sacred Persia—the next apartment, supposed to be the library—traces of gilding on the doorways, &c.

The Colossi in the Plain.—Of these the northern one is the vocal statue of the ancients. It is of Amunoph III., the founder of Luxor, who reigned in the 15th century, B.C. Wilkinson discovered the means of deception; a stone, which, when struck, produces a sound similar to that described by Strabo or Pausanias, is still to be found in the lap. The other statue bears the same cartouches, and both are supposed by Wilkinson to have stood at the commencement of a dromio or avenue of the sphinxes running nearly twelve hundred feet towards an indistinct mass of buildings now called Kom el Hattan. Champollion and some architects suppose that they stood before a propylon.

Mehdenet Habor.—A temple-palace, a private palace or harem, and a temple. The harem is very interesting, but partly destroyed. It consists principally of a pavilion in advance of the palace, and in it are some curious sculptures, among which the king is represented playing chess with his ladies. A ladder is necessary.

The great temple-palace is remarkable not only for its architecture, but for the sculptures representing the conquests of Rameses III. (about the 13th century, B.C.) These are particularly remarkable in the hypœtheral court, where there is exhibited, in the northern side, a magnificent pageant, the coronation of the Pharaoh. The whole exterior of the northern side of the building is covered with battle scenes. Among the heaps of hands poured out before the conqueror arelions’ paws. There are also heaps of phalia.

The great lake, for the ceremonies of the dead (the hippodrome of the French savans), will be best distinguished from the top of the pavilion. There are several other remains, and tombs without number.

There is no trace, whatever, of a wall of circumvallation, though the crude brick enclosures of the temples still remain.

We add to the foregoing, the observations of other writers upon the subject of some of the most interesting of these wondrous antiquities.

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Luxor.—In approaching this temple from the north, the first object is a magnificent propylon, or gateway, which is two hundred feet in length, and the top of it fifty-seven feet above the present level of the soil. In front of the entrance are the two most perfect obelisks in the world, each of a single block of red granite, from the quarries of Elephantine; they are between seven and eight feet square at the base, and above eighty feet high; many of the hieroglyphical figures with which they are covered are an inch and three quarters deep, cut with the greatest precision. Between these obelisks and the propylon are two colossal statues, also of red granite; though buried in the ground to the chest, they still measure twenty-one and twenty-two feet from thence to the top of their mitres. The attention of the traveller is soon diverted from these masses to the sculptures which cover the eastern wing of the north front of the propylon, on which is a very animated description of a remarkable event in the campaigns of Osymandrias or Sesostris. The ruined portico, which is entered from the gateway, is of very large dimensions; from this a double row of seven columns, with lotus capitals, two-and-thirty feet in circumference, conducts you into a court, one hundred and sixty feet long, and one hundred and forty wide, terminating at each side by a row of columns, beyond which is another portico of thirty-two columns, and the adytum, or interior apartments of the building.

The temple of Luxor was probably built on the banks of the Nile, for the convenience of sailors and wayfaring men; where, without much loss of time, they might stop, say their prayers, present their offerings, &c. Great and magnificent as it is, it only serves to show us the way to a much greater, to which it is hardly more in comparison than a kind of porter’s lodge; I mean the splendid ruin of the temple at Karnak. The distance from Luxor to Karnak is about a mile and a half, or two miles. The whole road was formerly lined with a row of sphinxes on each side. At present these are entirely covered up for about two-thirds of the way, on the end nearest to Luxor. On the latter part of the road, near Karnak, a row of criosphinxes (that is, with a ram’s head and a lion’s body), still exist on each side of the way.

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Karnak.—The name of Diospolis is sufficient to entitle us to call the grand temple at Karnak the temple of Jupiter. This temple has twelve principal entrances, each of which is composed of several propyla and colossal gateways, ormoles, besides other buildings attached to them, in themselves larger than most other temples. One of the propyla is entirely of granite, adorned with the most finished hieroglyphics. On each side of many of them have been colossal statues of basalt, breccia and granite; some sitting, some erect, from twenty to thirty feet in height.

The body of the temple, which is preceded by a large court, at the sides of which are colonnades of thirty columns in length, and through the middle of which are two rows of columns fifty feet high, consisting, first of a prodigious hall, or portico, the roof of which is sustained by one hundred and thirty-four columns, some of which are twenty-six feet in circumference, and others thirty-four; there are four beautiful obelisks marking the entrance by the adytum, near which the monarch is represented as embraced by the arms of Isis.

The adytum itself consists of three apartments, entirely of granite. The principal room, which is in the centre, is twenty feet long, sixteen wide, and thirteen feet high. Three blocks of granite form the roof, which is painted with clusters of gilt stars on a blue ground. Beyond are other porticoes and galleries, which have been continued to another propylon, at the distance of two thousand feet from that at the western extremity of the temple.

It may not be uninteresting to add a few particulars relative to this temple, the largest, perhaps, and certainly one of the most ancient, in the world.

Two of the porticoes within it appear to have consisted of pillars in the form of human figures, in the character of Hermes, that is, the lower part of the body hidden, and unshapen, with his arms folded, and in his hand the insignia of divinity; perhaps the real origin of the Grecian Caryatides.

Exclusive of these columnar statues, which have been thirty-eight in number, and the least of them thirty feet high, there are fragments, more or less mutilated, of twenty-three other statues, in granite, breccia and basalt; seventeen of which are colossal, and have been placed in front of the several entrances. They are in general from twenty-five to thirty feet in height, and executed in the best Egyptian style.

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Biban-ool-Moolk, or, the Tombs of the Kings, is a most dismal-looking spot, a valley of rubbish, without a drop of water or blade of grass. The entrance to the tombs looks out from the rock like the entrance to so many mines; and, were it not for the recollections with which it is peopled, and the beautiful remains of ancient art which lie hid in the bosom of the mountain, would hardly ever be visited by man or beast. The heat is excessive, from the confined dimensions of the valley and the reflection of the sun from the rock and sand. The whole valley is filled with rubbish that has been washed down from the rock or carried out in the making of the tombs, with merely a narrow road up the centre.

Diodorus Siculus states, on the authority of the Egyptian priests, that forty-seven of these tombs were entered in their sacred registers, only seventeen of which remained in the time of Ptolemy Lagus. And in the 180th Olympiad, about 60 years B.C., when Diodorus Siculus was in Egypt, many of these were greatly defaced. Before Mr. Belzoni began his operations in Thebes, only eleven of these tombs were known to the public. From the great success that crowned his exertions, the number of them is nearly double. The general appearance of these tombs is that of a continued shaft, or corridor, cut in the rock, in some places spreading out into large chambers; in other places, small chambers pass off by a door from the shafts, &c. In some places, where the rock is low and disintegrated, a broad excavation is formed on the surface, till it reaches a sufficient depth of solid stones, when it narrows, and enters by a door of about six or eight feet wide, and about ten feet high.

The passage then proceeds with a gradual descent for about a hundred feet, widening or narrowing, according to the plan or object of the architect, sometimes with side chambers, but more frequently not. The beautiful ornament of the globe, with the serpent in its wings, is sculptured over the entrance. The ceiling is black, with silver stars, and the vulture, with outspread wings, holding a ring and a broad-feathered sceptre by each of his feet, is frequently repeated on it, with numerous hieroglyphics, which are white or variously-coloured. The walls on each side are covered with hieroglyphics, and large sculptured figures of the deities of Egypt, and of the hero for whom the tomb was excavated. Sometimes both the hieroglyphics and the figures are wrought in intaglio; at other times they are in relief; but throughout the same tomb they are generally all of one kind. The colours are green, blue, red, black and yellow, and, in many instances, are as fresh and vivid as if they had not been laid on a month. Intermixed with the figures, we frequently meet with curious devices, representing tribunals where people are upon their trials, sometimes undergoing punishment; the preparation of mummies, and people bearing them in procession on their shoulders; animals tied for sacrifice, and partly cut up; and occasionally the more agreeable pictures of entertainments, with music and dancing, and well-dressed people listening to the sound of the harp played by a priest, with his head shaved, and dressed in a loose, flowing white robe, shot with red stripes.

Two other colossal statues, called also by some the statues of Memnon, are in the plain, about half-way between the desert and the river. They are about fifty feet high, and seated each on a pedestal six feet in height, eighteen long, and fourteen broad. The stone of which they are formed is of a reddish grey.

These two statues are by the Arabs familiarly called Shamy and Damy.

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Medinet Haboo.—One outward inclosure, or brick wall, seems to have contained three distinct, though connected, buildings, to which we may arbitrarily assign the names of the chapel, the palace and the temple. The principal entrance to the palace from the plain being blocked up, it is only to be approached now by a side doorway from the pronaos of the chapel. Of this building, which may once have been the residence of the sovereigns of Egypt, one tower only is remaining. This was divided into three stories, in each of which are two apartments. The stone pavement of the lower rooms is still perfect, but the upper floors and the wooden beams which supported them have entirely disappeared. The interior walls have not such a profusion of sculptures as those without. At each side of one of the windows is an Isis, with the hawk’s wing, kneeling, and wearing the lunar crescent on her head. At another window are four projecting sphinxes; and in a corner of one of the rooms are two females, with baskets of lotuses on their heads, carrying a plate of cakes to the king, who is sitting; before him stands another female, with the same head-dress, stretching out her arm, while he puts some of the delicacies into his mouth.

Ebek, the most northern of all the Theban monuments, is only remarkable because the plan on which it is constructed is very different from that of all other temples in Egypt. It has a single row of columns in front, and the rest of the building is distributed into a variety of comparatively small apartments.

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Memnonium.—The term Memnonium is used by Strabo to designate that part of ancient Thebes which lies on the western side of the river. The French savans, however, without sufficient reason, have restricted it to the magnificent ruin which we are going to describe. This beautiful relic of antiquity looks to the east, and is fronted by a stupendous propylon, of which two hundred and thirty-four feet in length are still remaining. The propylon stands on the edge of the soil; but the area cultivable, or space for the dromos behind it, is floored by the solid rock, on which the rest of the temple is erected. The eastern wall is much fallen down, and both ends are greatly dilapidated. Every stone in the propylon appears to have been shaken and loosened in its place, as if from the concussion of an earthquake, for no human violence seems adequate to produce such an effect in such an immense mass of building as that under consideration. A stair enters from each end, by which to ascend to the top of the propylon, from which passages go off in a number of chambers, as in the temples of Phylæ Edifore, &c.

This colossus measures six feet ten inches over the foot, and sixty-two or sixty-three feet round the shoulders. It has been broken off at the waist, and the upper part is laid prostrate on the back; the face is entirely obliterated, and, next to the wonder excited at the boldness of the sculptor who made it, and the extraordinary powers of those who erected it, the labour and exertions that must have been used for its destruction, are most astonishing. It could only have been brought about with the help of military engines, and must then have been the work of time. Its fall has carried along with it the whole of the wall of the temple which stood within its reach. It was not without great difficulty and danger that we could climb on its shoulder and neck, and in going from thence upon its chest, assisted by Arab servants.

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Dendera.—The centuries that this great temple of Venus has seen have scarcely affected it in any important part; and have given it no greater appearance of age and ruin than what serves to render it more venerable and imposing. After seeing innumerable monuments of the same kind throughout the Thebaid, it seemed as if we were now arrived at the highest pitch of architectural excellence that was ever attained on the borders of the Nile. Here we found concentrated the united labour of ages, and the last effort of human art and industry in that regular uniform line of construction, which had been adopted in the earliest times. After admiring the general effect of the whole mass, its elegance, solidity, correct proportions and graceful outlines, it was difficult to decide what particular objects were to be first examined. Whether its sculptures or paintings, typical and ornamental, the distribution of the interior apartments, the details of the capitals and columns, the mystical meaning of particular representations here seen for the first time; the zodiacs,[14]or the other celestial phenomena, sculptured on the ceilings, all seemed objects of high interest and importance, all invited a nearer and closer inspection. The portico consists of twenty-four columns in three rows, each above twenty-two feet in circumference, thirty-two high, and covered with hieroglyphics. The peculiar form of the square capital, with a front face of the goddess on each side, particularly attracted our attention. We were at first struck by the singularity of an idea so foreign to the common notions of Greek architecture; but the eye is soon reconciled to it; and the solemn and mild monotony of these faces impresses the spectator with a silent, reverential awe, a willing conviction of the immediate presence of the deity of the place in her most gracious character; and, indeed, the Greeks, in their Caryatides, seem in some degree to have added their sanction to the principle.

The sekos, or the interior of the temple, consists of several apartments, all the walls and ceilings of which are in the same way covered with religious and astronomical representations. The roofs are, like the rest in Egypt, flat; the oblong masses of stone resting on the side walls; and, when the distance of these is too great, one or two rows of the columns are carried down the middle of the apartment, by which the roof is supported. The capitals of these columns are very richly ornamented with the budding lotus, the stalks of which being carried down some way below the capital, give the shaft the appearance of being fluted, or rather scolloped.

The following, gleaned from other sources, will, perhaps, be also acceptable as a guide to the sight-seer.

No person ought to leave Egypt without visiting Assowan and Philœ, particularly if he go up as high as Thebes; for he can form no correct judgment of Egypt and her wonderful and gigantic works, unless he sees the temples and shrubberies at Esireh Fdjou, Koon, Ombes, Assowan, and Philœ, as well as those in the Thebaid and at Tentyra. By traversing Egypt from Alexandria to Assowan, you can with ease inspect all those wonderful remains of labour and art, unequalled in the world for extent or size as architectural works, and which, to the mind of the observer, place beyond doubt the wealth, the power, the science, and great population of ancient Egypt. To attempt to convey to a person who has not seen structures of the kind, any idea of what these ruins are, is out of the question. In the granite quarries at Assowan, from whence these immense monuments were taken, are two unfinished sarcophagi and an obelisk cut and formed, but still attached to the native rock. The obelisk is shaped out and cut round on all sides except its under one, a bed which still attaches it to the rock. It measures 76 feet in length, and 12 feet broad, and in depth to the drift-sand in which it has imbedded itself 6 feet thick. The marks of the workman’s chisel and wedge, with which instruments, it appears, these immense masses have been disjoined from the native rock, are as fresh as if they had been applied but yesterday. It is inconceivable how such entire masses could have been taken from their bed to the Nile, a distance of at least a mile and a half, and from thence transported to where we see them still standing, seventy, eighty, and ninety feet in height, and eight, ten and twelve feet square at the base, as at Luxor, Karnak, Helipolis, Frorun, and at Alexandria, covered with deeply engraved figures and hieroglyphics, in some places still bearing a glossy and fresh polish. In the island of Philœ there are some beautiful and extensive remains of Egyptian, as also one of Grecian, architecture. Leaving Luxor in the night of the third of May, we arrived at Khenneh the following day, and, after visiting the temple of Hentyra or of Isis, on the opposite bank of the Nile, and remaining an hour or two at Khenneh, we left that place for Cairo, where we arrived on the sixteenth of the same month.

Passing through the palm-tree grove which covers the high ridge, or mound, formed by the ruins of the ancient Memphis, the traveller approaches a small open circular plain, which is supposed to have been the Archerusian Lake of the city; on the south side of this, the large colossal statue of Sesostris is to be seen. It was discovered and laid open by Mr. Sloane and M. Coriglier, and is the most perfect statue in Egypt, and the most beautifully formed. It lies with its face downwards. It is broken off below the ankle, and the entire length of the block now remaining is thirty-six feet six inches. The ruins of the edifice before which it had stood are apparent under the rubbish which surrounds the place. The ancient Necropolis of Paccachia, or, as some writers suppose, of the city of Memphis, extends for miles round the pyramids. Indeed, from the pyramids of Dashores to those of Cheops and Copprieves, is one continued burying-ground. The pyramids of Dashores, as well as those of Saccachara, and the excavations and tombs in the rocks, may be inspected in one day. We landed at Goza, and took donkeys, and passed the day in visiting the large pyramids. The following morning we passed the island of Rhode, visited the Nilometer, and, after sailing down about half a mile, and passing the aqueducts of Lubuddia, about one-hundred yards, landed again on the island, and entered the gardens of Ibrahim Pacha.

Another writer gives the following outline of the interesting sights to be seen on the Nile.

On the eastern bank, eight miles to the south of Cairo, quarries of Maasara, from which the stone used for part of the casing of the pyramids was taken. Some hieroglyphic tablets, in one of which oxen are represented drawing a stone placed on a sledge. A little beyond the modern village is an inclined road, which leads from the quarries to the river. Thirty miles further to the south, on the same bank, is Atfëeh, mounds of Aphroditopolis, no ruins. False pyramid on opposite bank, three miles beyond El Feshu, and on eastern bank, remains of crude brick, the walls of an ancient village, called El Héebee and some hieroglyphics.

From Beuisooef is the road to the Fyoom, which, when the Nile is low, may be visited conveniently. A brick pyramid at Illahoon, another at El Howâra, and vestiges of the labyrinth, obelisk at Biggig, ruins on and near the lake Mœris, and at Qasr Kharoon. From Aboogirgeh is the shortest road to Bahnasa (Oxyriuchus) mounds, no ruins, Gebel é Tayr, north-end, grotto or rock temple, called Babyn, convent further to the south; eight miles below Minyeh is Tehneh (Acoris) on eastern bank, a Greek Ptolemaic inscription on the face of the cliff, tombs hewn in the rock, with small inscriptions at the doors, Roman figures in high relief, on the upper part of the rock, some hieroglyphic tablets, quarries on the top of the mountain, a tank, &c.

Same (eastern bank) seven miles above Minyeh, Komahmar, some grottoes, and ruins of an old town; nine miles farther (eastern hank), Beni Hassan, very fine grottoes, with curious paintings; and about a mile and a half farther, a grotto, or rock temple, of Pasht (Bubastis, or Diana), the Speos Artemidos, cat mummies in the ravine.

Antinöe, now Shekh Abadeh, few remains of the town, a theatre, the principal streets, baths, &c., outside the town, on the east, is the hippodrome. The grottoes in the mountain are unsculptured, and have some Christian inscriptions. A little to the north of Antinöe are the remains, apparently, of Besa, scarcely worthy of a visit.

At El Bersheh, a grotto on the mountain, in which a colossus is represented on a sledge. At Oshmoonayn (western bank) no remains of Hermopolis Magna. At Gebel Toona, a mountain, skirting the desert to the west are mummy-pits, a tablet of hieroglyphics, and statues in high relief. At Mellawee, and at Tamoof Tanis, superior mounds, but no ruins. At Shayda, at corner of mountains, on eastern bank, crude brick walls, and some grottoes.

At Shekh Said, the mountains recede to the eastward, leaving the river, and a little beyond is the village of Tel el Armarnar, to the north of which are the remains of a small town, and to the south the ruins of a city, which I suppose to be Alabastron: all the stone buildings have been quite destroyed, but some of the brick houses remain; near the crude brick towers of the temple are the largest houses. To the east are several fine grottoes in the face of the mountain, with curious sculptures, and on the summit of it is an ancient alabaster quarry. Six miles below Maufaloot, at El Haryib, ruins of an old town, in a ravine of the Gebel Aboolfaydee; numerous dog and cat mummies, near El Maabdeh, opposite Maufaloot; crocodile mummies in chambers of great extent in the mountain.

At E’Sioot (Lycopolis), the capital of Upper Egypt, grottoes, wolf mummies; the modern cemetery is prettily laid out. Gow (Antœpolis) a few stones of the temple, close to the river; some grottoes at the corner of the mountain, to the north, below Gow, but not containing good sculptures. Shekh Hereedee, small grottoes; Roman statue at the base of the mountain, cut out of a piece of a rock. The snake of Shekh Hereedee is still supposed to perform cures.

To the west of Soohag, near the corner of mountains, old town of Athribes, a Greek inscription in the ruined temple, grottoes in the mountain; and to the north is the white monastery, or Dayr Amba Shuoodee, nearly opposite Soohag is E’Khmim (Panopolis) Greek inscription of the temple of Pan, and some remains of other stone buildings.

Mensheeh (Ptolemais Hermii), western bank, eight miles above E’Khmim, remains of a stone quay. From Girgh go to Abydos, three hours ride, and send on the boat to Bellianeh, returning to it in the evening, two hours ride; or, coming down the river, stop at Bellianeh, and send on the boat to Girgeh. At Abydos two temples and many tombs.

How (Diospolis parva) has very few remains of Ptolemaic or Roman time. In mounds at the ridge of the desert, a mile and a half south of How, some tombs; one of Dionysius, son of Ptolemy, has some sculpture.

Qasr e Syad (Chenoboscion), remains of a quay; about one mile beyond the eastern mouth of the canal of this village, are some very ancient grottoes, with kings’ names. Dendera (Teutyris) opposite Qeneh, two temples, inscriptions, zodiac, &c. Qeneh is famous for its manufacture of porous jars; from it, roads lead to Kossayr on the Red Sea.

Qoft (Coptos), ruins of the old town, and of a temple, a Christian church, canals, &c.; at the village of El Qala, to the north, is a small Roman Egyptian temple.

Qoos (Apollinopolis parva), no more ruins left; at a well on the north of the town is a Ptolemaic monolith, with hieroglyphics, converted into a tank, and a few stone remains of early time in the plain to the west, near a Shekh’s tomb. Thebes (Diospolis magna), on the eastern bank, Karnac and Lugsor; on the west, the tombs of the kings, private tombs, several temples, colossi of the plain, &c.

Erment (Hermonthis), west bank, temple and early Christian church. Tuot, or E`Selemeëh (Tuphium) on eastern bank, Ptolemy temple, much ruined, and concealed by the hovels of the peasant. Gebelaun, i.e. , “the two hills,” a small ancient town in ruins, and grottoes, not worthy of a visit. At Tofnees and Assfoon, mounds of ancient towns, no ruins.

Esneh (Latopolis), fine portico, zodiac and quay. At Edayr, three miles to the north of Esneh, remains of a small temple of the Ptolemies and Cæsars, lately destroyed. Thirteen miles from Esneh, near El Qenan, ruins of a quay; on west bank and three miles farther, a small stone pyramid, opposite the quay, is the junction of the limestone and sandstone. Four miles beyond, on eastern bank, is El Kab (Eilethyas), ruins of a very ancient town, the temples lately destroyed, curious grottoes in the mountain, and a short distance up the valley are three small temples. In the bed of the ravine are ponds encrusted with natron.

Edfoo (Apollinopolis magna) two temples. Eleven miles above Edfoo, and on the eastern bank, remains of an old town, on face of hill, fortified with towers of Arab construction. Silsilis (now Hagar Silsili), quarries of sandstone, used for building the temples of Upper Egypt, tables and grottoes. Komombo (Ombos), two temples; ancient stone gateway, in a crude brickwall on the eastern side of the enclosure of the temples; houses burnt.

At E’Sooan (Syene), ruins of a small temple of Roman date, some columns, Saracen wall, and Cufic tombstones; granite quarries, in one of which is a broken obelisk; Latin inscription of Caracalla near another quarry; road to Philæ, and wall; numerous hieroglyphic tables on the rocks. Island of Elephantine; opposite the projecting rocks of E’Sooan is the Nilometer, which is a staircase, with Greek inscriptions relating to the rise of the Nile. Granite gateway, bearing the name of Alexander, the son of Alexander the Great.

At the northern end of the cataract, in the island of Sehàyl, few vestiges of a temple; hieroglyphic tablets on the rocks. Go from E’Sooan to Sehàyl in a boat, and ride to Philæ. At Philæ, temples and ruins. Islands of Biggeh, opposite Philæ, to the west, ruined temple, tablets, &c., &c.

---

NUBIA.

Dabode (Parembole), temple, west bank. Kerdassy, ruins and quarries. Tafa (Taphis), two small ruins, and stone enclosures. Kalabshee (Talmis), large temple, quarries, and, on hill behind it, to the northward, a small, but interesting temple, called Bayt el Wellee, cut in the rock. Dandoor, temple. Gerf Hossayn (Tutzis), temple, cut in the rock, of the time of Rameses II.

Dakkeh (Pselcis), temple of Ptolemaic and Roman date; It has also the names of two Ethiopian princes, Ergamun, or Ergamenes (mentioned by Diodorus, iii. 6, as a contemporary of Ptolemy Philadelphus), and Ataramun; many Greek inscriptions. Opposite Dakkeh, ruins of Contra Pselcis, or of Metacompso.

Corte (Corti), few remains. Maharraka, or Oofideena, ruins of Hierasycamenon, style bad, and all of late date. Isis is represented under the fig-tree. Taboaa, temple of the time of Rameses II., with avenue of sphinxes; the adytum is cut in the rock, the rest built. Hassain, or Amada, a temple of Thothmes, ancient, nearly opposite to it in Dayr or Derr, on east bank, the capital of Nubia, which has a temple cut in the rock, of the time of Rameses II.

Ibreem (Primis parva), part of the ancient wall on south side of town; remains of a stone building amidst the houses; some small grottoes below the town near the river. Aboosimbel, two temples cut in the rock, the finest Egyptian monuments out of Thebes; they are of the time of Rameses II.

At Ferayg, nearly opposite, on east bank, a small temple in the rock. Farras, on west bank, few remains; grottoes with Coptic inscriptions, some distance from the river. Wadee Alfeh, remains of three buildings on west bank; fine view of the second cataract from a rock on the same bank, a short walk to the south of Wadee Halfeh.

A day and a half beyond Wadee Halfeh are the two small temples of Samneh and the third cataract.

The distances from the Mediterranean to the second cataract are as follow:—

From	Rosetta to	Cairo	about 110 miles.
	Cairo	Benisoef	83
	Benisoef	Minyeh	85
	Minyeh	E’Sivot	106
	E’Sivot	Girgeh	97
	Girgeh	Qeneh	97
	Qeneh	Thebes	79
	Thebes	Esneh	38
	Esneh	Esooan	100
	Esooan	Wadee Halfeh	219
Total from Rosetta to Wadee Halfeh			960 miles.

It may be interesting to the sportsman to know that, in the course of his river trip, he will occasionally find “food for powder.” Game is by no means abundant, but here and there a random shot may be had at a gazelle; coveys of partridgeshave been seen; rock-pigeons are numerous; and the rifle may afford some sport in the land of crocodiles.

The gazelle, ibex, kebsh (or wild sheep), hare, fox, jackal, wolf, and hyæna, are still found in the valley of the Nile, or in the desert.

The “kebsh” frequents the eastern desert, principally in the ranges of primitive mountains, which, commencing about latitude 28° 40′ at the back of the limestone hills of the valley of the Nile, extend thence into Ethiopia and Abyssinia.

The Egyptian hare is a native of the valley of the Nile, as well as the two deserts. It is remarkable for the length of its ears, which the Egyptians have not failed to indicate in their sculptures; but it is much smaller than those of Europe.

The intelligent Denon has made a just remark on the comparative size of animals common to Egypt and Europe, that the former are always smaller than our own species, and this is exemplified by none more strongly than the hare and wolf.

In enumerating the wild beasts of the desert, it may not be irrelevant to observe, that the hyæna and wolf are seldom met with in unfrequented districts, or any great distance from the Nile, where they would suffer from want of food, and are therefore principally confined to the mountains lying a few miles from the edge of the culti vated land. The wolf is very rarely seen on the coast of the Red Sea, and few even of the watering-places of the interior of the desert are infested by it, or the hyæna.

The hippopotamus was always rare in Lower Egypt, but in Upper Ethiopia this amphibious animal is common in the Nile.

The crocodile, formerly an inhabitant of Lower Egypt and the Delta, now limits the extent of its visits northward to the districts about Inanfaloot.

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APPENDIX (A).

As a guide to the cost of a berth, or cabin, it is only necessary to mention the rates at which passengers can be accommodated, according to the berth or cabin they occupy.

From England to …	Aden.	Ceylon.	Madras.	Calcutta.	Penang.	Singapore.	Hong Kong.
	£	£	£	£	£	£	£
For a Gentleman, occupying a berth in one of the general gentlemen’s cabins	77	113	118	127	134	142	165
For a Lady, occupying a a berth in one of the general ladies’ cabins	82	122	127	134	142	152	175
For a Gentleman and his Wife. A whole cabin throughout	214	290	299	317	332	350	396
Occupying one of the best reserved cabins throughout.	259	335	344	362	377	395	441
For a Child with the Parent, 5 years and under 10	50	65	70	80	70	75	85
Not exceeding 2 years	Free	Free	Free	Free	Free	Free	Free
For Servants–European– Female	37	46	52	62	52	57	67
Male	35	44	50	60	50	55	65
Native–Female	30	32	38	44	39	44	49
Male	26	28	34	40	35	40	45

The above charges include every expense, except hotel expenses in Egypt, and wines, beer, and spirits, while passing between Alexandria and Suez. (See p. 38.)

For an estimate of the expense of proceeding from Suez to Bombay, the reader is referred to the East India Company’s Regulations, p. 39; see also James Barber and Co.’s Circular.

---

APPENDIX (B.)

TARIFF

OF DUTIES WHICH ARE LEVIED ON THE IMPORTATION OF THE FOLLOWING ARTICLES:—

Notwithstanding the advice already given in this little volume, we repeat that passengers would always save themselves much trouble, and, by facilitating the examination of luggage, their fellow-travellers great delay, if they would take the precaution to pack goods liable to duty in a separate case, marked “duty goods,” and leave it in charge of Mr. Hill, the “Peninsular and Oriental Company’s” custom-house agent at Southampton, who always goes on board the steamer on its arrival, and who will punctually forward it as directed. They should, at the same time, deliver to Mr. Hill a list of the contents and the value of each article, bearing in mind that duty is chargeable on the value of the article in England, without reference to its cost price, and that, provided the revenue officer does not approve of the declared value made by the owner of the goods, he can seize the same, in which case, the declared value, with an additional ten per cent., is paid to the owner.

As a general guide, it is recommended that the cost price be given to Mr. Hill, and that he be left to estimate the duty, his great experience qualifying him to do so.

Cotton must not be used for packing goods of any description by the Overland Route; it occasions great difficulty, and subjects them to seizure, under the quarantine laws.

	Ad valorem duty.
		£	s.	d.
Muslins, embroidered	per cent.	15	0	0
Bombay Manufacture, cases or boxes, of similar description	per cent.	10	0	0
Brocade, of gold and silver	per cent.	10	0	0
Articles of Wool manufactured, made up	per cent.	10	0	0
Woollen Manufactures, broad stuffs			Free
Ivory Manufactures, or tortoise-shell and furniture	per cent.	10	0	0
Condiments, Curry, &c.	per cent.	10	0	0
Grass-Cloth	per cent.	10	0	0
Manufactured Skins	£10 and B. P.	5	0	0
Unmanufactured Skins			Free
Shawls, Cachmere	£10 and B. P.	5	0	0
Muslin, plain			Free
Skins, tiger, dressed			Free
Feathers, ostrich, dressed, per lb.	£1 10s. and £5 per cent.
Feathers, undressed			Free
Paddy-Bird	1s. and £5 per cent.
If several are put together, and can be called manufactured, on value	per cent.	10	0	0
Cigars	per lb. 9s. and £5 per cent.
Snuff	per lb. 6s. and £5 per cent.
Silver	1s. 6d. per oz., and on value £10 per cent.	0	10	0
Sweetmeats	B. P. 1d. per lb.,	0	0	6
Pickles, in vinegar	per gall.	0	0	4
Pickles, or vegetables, in salt and water	£5 per cent.	0	0	4
Agates or Cornelians, not set			Free
Agates or Cornelians, set or cut		10	0	0
Books, of editions printed prior to 1801, the cwt.	£1 and £5 per cent.
Books, of editions printed in or since 1801, in foreign living languages	£2 and 10s.	10	0	0
Books, in the dead languages, or in the English language, printed out of England in or since 1801 (N.B. Pirated editions of English works, of which the copyright exists in England, are totally prohibited.)	£5 and	10	0	0
Books, English, printed in England (unless declared that no excise drawback was received on exportation)	£5 and 5 per cent.
Cameos	per cent.	5	0	0
China or Porcelain, plain or white		10	0	0
China or Porcelain, painted or gilt		10	0	0
Cigars (under 3 lb. only allowed in a passenger’s baggage) from the Continent Under 7 lb. allowed from East Indies.	the lb.	0	9	0
(N.B. If a greater quantity, a declaration required that they are for private use, and a petition to Customs for permission to import.)
Clocks (must have maker’s name on face and on works)	per cent.	10	0	0
Watches, (must have maker’s name on face and on works)	£10 and £5 per cent.	10	0	0
Cordials and Liqueurs (for the bottles, see Wine)	per gal.	1	10	4
Cotton, articles made up of	per cent. £10 and B. P.	5	0	0
Eau de Cologne, in flasks	the flask	0	1	0
(N.B. If in other than ordinary flasks, 30s. 4d. the gal. and the bottle-duty.)
Embroidery and Needlework	per cent.	15	0	0
Flower Roots	“		Free
Flowers, Artificial	“	25	0	0
Furniture	“	10	0	0
Frames, for pictures, &c.	£10 and £5 per cent.
Furs and Skins dressed, made up	£10 and P. B.	5	0	0
Furs and Skins dressed, in pieces, not made up			Free
Glass, flint or cut	2d. per lb.
Jewellery flint or cut	per cent.	10	0	0
Japanned or Lacquered Ware	“	10	0	0
Maps or Charts, plain or coloured, each map or part thereof			Free
Magna Græcia Ware, or ancient earthen vases			Free
Medals, silver, or any sort			“
Models, of cork or wood			“
Minerals and Fossils, or specimens of			“
Musical Instruments or specimens of		10	0	0
Mock Pearls		10	0	0
Marble, manufactured	the cwt. 3s. and	5	0	0
	and B. P.	0	1	6
Mosaic Work, Stone and Slate manufactured hewn per ton	10s. and per cent. and from B. P. 1s. and 11s. per cent.	5	0	0
Mosaic Work, Stone and Slate small ornaments for jewellery,	per cent	10	0	0
Prints and Drawings, plain or coloured, single	each 1d. and £5 per cent.
Prints and Drawings, bound or sewn	the dozen 3d.
Pictures	each 1s. 0d. and £5 per cent.
Pictures and further,	the square foot 1s. and £5 per cent.
Pictures being 200 square feet and upwards	each £10 and £5 per cent.
Paintings on Glass	the superficial foot	0	0	9
Plate, of gold or silver, gilt or ungilt,	per cent. £10 and £5 per cent.
Plate, also the stamp-duty. If intended for sale, it must be assayed, under the penalties and forfeiture regulating the standard for plate in England	per oz.	0	1	6
Seeds, garden	the lb.		Free
Silk, Millinery, turbans or caps	each	0	3	6
Silk, Millinery, hats or bonnets	each	0	7	0
Silk, dresses	each	1	10	0
Silk Hangings, and other manufactures of silk	per cent.	15	0	0
Toys	£10 and £5 per cent.
Velvet, plain (produce of Europe)	the lb.	0	9	0
Velvet, figured	the lb.	0	9	0
Velvet, otherwise	£15 per cent.
Wine, in casks, all except Cape, the gallon,	5s. 6d. and £5 per cent.
Wine, in bottles, six to the gallon,	5s. 6d. and £5 per cent.
Wine, and further, on the bottles	the cwt.	0	0	9
Spirits, in casks, must not be imported under twenty gallons	the gal.	1	2	10
Spirits, in bottles, the additional duty for the bottles, as wine bottles.	the gal.	1	2	10

THE FOLLOWING MAY BE IMPORTED FREE OF DUTY.

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APPENDIX (C).

It may be useful, as a reference, to give the distances of the different stations in India from each presidency.

	Miles distant from
Stations
	Calcutta.	Madras.	Bombay.
Agra	796	1238	755
Ahmedabad	1219	1050	354
Ahmednuggur	1033	664	162
Ahtoor	1232	186	779
Ajmere	1035	1272	677
Akola	829	694	349
Akulcote	1185	557	269
Akyab	548	1161	1745
Allahabad	489	1151	831
Alleppee	1475	470	805
Allyghur	816	1321	810
Allynuggur	416	1139	920
Almorah	896	289	1013
Amulnair	1078	829	231
Anantapore	1068	293	507
Anjunwel	1240	636	149
Anopshuhur	856	1329	735
Arcot	1085	71	715
Arnee	1140	81	732
Arracan	462	980	1647
Arrah	381	1367	1033
Aska	399	707	1040
Asseeghur	909	779	313
Ava	851	1280	1947
Avanashy	1293	289	735
Aurungabad	963	690	215
Azimghur	475	1220	977
Backergunge	183	1246	1368
Bagapully	1151	218	566
Bair	364	1339	1105
Baitool	789	834	433
Balasore	145	922	1192
Bancoorah	101	1062	1223
Banda	613	1102	771
Bangalore	1161	205	633
Baraset	15	1078	1202
Bareilly	782	1329	918
Baroda	1230	997	281
Barrackpore	16	1079	1201
Bassein	1221	784	32
Beana	1050	1292	808
Beauleah	145	1135	1345
Behar	340	1324	1120
Beerbhoom	127	1118	1279
Bejapore	1173	482	280
Belgaum	1173	482	280
Bellary	1090	316	446
Benares	428	1151	927
Berhampore	118	1138	1290
Berhampore (Mad.)	382	682	1015
Beawur	1000	1287	692
Bezoarah	786	275	603
Bhaugulpore	268	1288	1202
Bhewndy	202	774	34
Bhilsah	877	973	521
Bhoolooah	293	1356	1478
Bhooj	1324	1281	587
Bhopawur	1024	1095	449
Bhopaul	848	944	492
Bimlipatam	540	518	851
Bishnawth	627	1647	1719
Biznore	905	1420	957
Bogra	246	1266	1427
Bogra	972	408	444
Bombay	1185	763	0
Bolundshuhur	857	1335	872
Broach	1228	927	231
Bugwah	332	1352	1359
Burdwan	75	1066	1227
Burkaghur	209	1256	1162
Buxar	446	1222	988
Cabool	1815	2134	1700
Cachar	398	1461	1583
Calcutta	0	1062	1185
Calicut	1374	418	672
Calimere Point	1283	224	925
Callian	1178	760	36
Calpee	657	1168	803
Cambay	1253	998	250
Canara	1350	436	524
Candahar	2047	2158	1394
Candy	1250	576	1277
Canuanore	1375	419	613
Carangoly	1109	49	777
Caroor	1272	258	799
Cashepore	872	1418	946
Cashmere	1564	1882	1250
Cawnpore	628	1200	854
Chandernagore	22	1085	1207
Chandore	1082	798	150
Chatterpore	686	1071	702
Chicacole	498	567	900
Chingleput	1095	36	767
Chinsurah	28	1098	1218
Chirra Poonjee	360	1423	1545
Chittagong	342	1405	1557
Chittledroog	1175	343	496
Chittoor	1079	96	685
Chitwye	1410	390	726
Chunar	433	1146	952
Chundpore	718	1259	894
Chuprah	400	1291	1056
Cochin	1441	437	772
Coimbatore	1319	315	746
Colgong	250	1270	1368
Combaconum	1246	187	888
Comercolly	124	1197	1304
Comorin Cape	1770	440	830
Condapilly	797	285	599
Conjeveram	1086	46	742
Contai	80	980	1226
Coochbehar	342	1362	1369
Coomreah	72	1196	1348
Coorg	1328	372	676
Coringa	674	374	783
Cotamputty	1304	250	885
Cotapuramba	1355	400	637
Cotyam	1495	490	825
Covilputty	1281	236	862
Cuddalore	1170	110	816
Cuddapah	1007	166	569
Culnah	52	1122	1368
Culneah	118	1181	1303
Cumbum	919	223	617
Cuttack	251	815	1151
Dacca	187	1250	1372
Damaun	1209	861	128
Dapoolie	1206	622	121
Darjeeling	343	1373	1441
Deesa	1300	1147	451
Delhi	900	1372	868
Deyrah Dhoon	967	1492	1008
Dharwar	1299	468	351
Dhoolia	1055	806	208
Dhummow	681	975	654
Dhurrungaum	1087	780	236
Diamond Harbour	30	1028	1176
Dinajepore	259	1289	1357
Dinapore	376	1337	1072
Dindigul	1315	270	819
Dum-Dum	8	1071	1193
Durbangah	424	1374	1193
Ellichpore	796	736	433
Ellore	748	315	648
Errode	1258	253	758
Eta	773	1319	856
Etawah	719	1221	764
Ferozepore	1150	1695	1170
French Rocks	1236	287	626
Furreedpore	128	1194	1313
Furruckabad	711	1252	897
Futtyghur	711	1252	897
Futtypore	580	1157	821
Galle, Point de	1380	576	1277
Ganjam	382	699	1302
Ghazeepore	431	1209	974
Goa	1359	573	318
Golconda	907	358	475
Goomsoor	425	760	1097
Goorgong	924	1396	892
Gopaulpore	374		1022
Goruckpore	525	1273	1038
Ghooty	1036	262	500
Gowahatty	502	1522	1594
Gowalparah	425	1445	1517
Gunga Khair	918	570	301
Guntoor	807	255	617
Gwalior	782	1164	680
Gya	289	1270	1069
Hajeepoor	1118	1687	1161
Hameepore	629	1142	867
Hansi	995	1476	880
Haupper	880	1350	895
Hazareebaugh	239	1200	1166
Heerapore	730	1014	659
Herat	2595	2510	1747
Hidjelee	80	980	1226
Hingolee	885	608	373
Hissar	1015	1496	900
Hooghly	28	1098	1218
Honore	1372	546	414
Hosheyapore	1148	1647	1121
Hospett	1129	355	424
Hurryhur	1203	393	446
Hursole	1273	1053	358
Hussinabad	864	900	460
Hydrabad (Deccan)	972	398	434
Do. (Scinde)	1626	1541	778
Incollo	848	215	634
Inchura	44	1192	1228
Indore	970	975	374
Injeram	674	374	783
Jansee	766	1001	400
Jaulnah	932	651	253
Jaunpore	466	1168	933
Jeagunghe	125	1145	1337
Jelalabad	734	1275	910
Jelasore	112	951	1159
Jessore	40	1141	1263
Jeypore	933	1340	745
Joudpore	1249	1316	696
Joynagore	139	1192
Jubulpore	700	879	674
Juggernauth	297	766	1102
Jumalpore	301	1321	1479
Kaira	1204	1029	334
Kalladghee	1223	453	314
Kamptee	686	722	547
Kangra	1200	1798	1170
Karicaul	1231	175	876
Kedgeree	64	994	1210
Khandala	1149	700	56
Kharwarah	1004	721	127
Khasalpore	91	1144	1328
Khatmandoo	560	1470	1215
Khyouk Phyoo	648	1711	1845
Kircumbady	1027	82	680
Kirkee	1110	670	87
Kishnaghur	64	1114	1249
Kishore	980	1186	587
Kolapore	1245	600	220
Kotah	971	1161	562
Kulladghee	1223	453	314
Kurnaul	978	1477	952
Kurnool	988	289	542
Kurrachee	1750	1596	833
Kurturpore	1148	1647	1211
Lahore	1356	1675	1130
Landour	980	1505	1021
Lohoogaut	950	1497	1067
Loodianah	1103	1602	1077
Luckeepore	270	1379	1591
Lucknow	619	1253	907
Madapollum	733	327	698
Madras	1063	0	763
Madura	1337	292	858
Mahableshur	1163	639	130
Mahidpore	1028	1033	432
Malcolm Peyt	1163	639	130
Maldah	191	1211	1288
Malwa	1400	616	278
Malabar	1374	418	672
Malligaum	1058	774	176
Mangalore	1359	436	524
Manuntoddy	1317	362	707
Masulipatam	797	285	654
Meerut	906	1405	912
Mercara	1328	372	676
Mhar	1257	655	107
Mhow	980	961	360
Midnapore	69	994	1116
Mirzapore	455	1124	890
Mithenkote	1345	1840	1077
Mokeran	1580	1682	1156
Mominabad	980	551	269
Monghyr	304	1324	1163
Moorshedabad	118	1138	1290
Moradabad	842	1388	916
Moulmein	928	1176	1939
Mozuffernuggur	942	1441	951
Mow	726	1111	742
Muctul	1060	349	420
Mukhi	1183	1682	1157
Mundeysir	1012	858	328
Munnipore	490	1557	1679
Muttra	818	1301	776
Mymensing	281	1348	1466
Mynpoory	739	1285	797
Mysore	1246	290	636
Nacrecul	892	329	504
Nagercoil	1483	438	1004
Nagery	1049	56	705
Nagore	1241	182	632
Nagpore	677	713	885
Naidopet	993	70	714
Nakodah	1138	1637	1100
Nalchitty	173	1236	1378
Nassick	1067	762	111
Neemuch	1049	1119	516
Neermul	859	530	599
Negapatam	1246	187	888
Nellore	952	111	684
Neilgherries	1342	338	722
Nepaul	560	1470	1215
Nerumbauk	1044	19	756
Noorpore	1213	1712	1186
Noacolly	293	1356	1478
Nowgong	610	1694	1766
Nowgaum	425	732	1065
Nubbenuger	349	1310	1095
Nuddea	64	1114	1249
Nujehabad	907	1444	981
Nursingpore	756	877	574
Nusseerabad	1018	1255	660
Nundydroog	1137	196	599
Nursapore	733	327	698
Odeypore	1130	1200	435
Ongole	873	189	642
Oojein	1004	1009	408
Oolundorpet	1177	131	823
Oomrawuttee	774	720	412
Oorungabad	160	1180	1347
Ootacamund	1342	338	722
Oossoor	1184	200	556
Oude	562	1228	1013
Padigaum	1147	629	130
Palamcottah	1435	390	957
Palaveram	1072	11	758
Palunpore	1291	1165	469
Paniput	1000	1428	924
Panwell	1159	741	20
Patna	369	1299	1065
Paulghaut	1350	346	754
Pelibeet	817	1364	948
Penn	1158	716	27
Periapatam	1279	324	669
Pertabghur	1081	1151	484
Peteraghur	975	1525	1095
Philloor	1113	1612	1086
Pondigul	862	286	550
Pondicherry	1157	98	803
Poonah	1107	667	90
Poonamallee	1065	12	750
Poondy	439	624	957
Pooree	297	766	1102
Poosa	422	1363	1129
Porto Nova	1188	129	850
Pubna	137	1210	1317
Pulicat	1043	30	770
Punderpore	1202	549	212
Purnea	228	1302	1379
Puttahat	258	1391	1513
Puttealee	817	1321	832
Quetta	1982	1897	1134
Quilon	1500	454	859
Ragapore	783	350	683
Rajahmundry	690	373	706
Rajapore	1400	1099	215
Rajeshye	145	1135	1345
Rajcote	1383	1153	458
Rajmahal	196	1216	1312
Rajpootana	1018	1255	660
Ramnad	1376	331	931
Ramree	698	1761	1895
Rhotuck	950	1422	918
Rungpore	302	1322	1329
Rutnagherry	1320	1320	198
Russellcondah	370	746	986
Ryepore	497	893	689
Sadras	1118	58	789
Saharunpore	978	1477	984
Sahuswan	796	1336	863
Salem	1221	217	747
Samulcottah	664	399	737
Sandoway	748	1811	1945
Santepore	50	1122	237
Sattara	1180	609	163
Saugor	742	964	602
Sawunt Warree	1360	583	280
Secunderabad	962	398	434
Sedashagur	1397	604	472
Sehore	870	966	470
Setapore	671	1305	959
Seonie.	755	791	536
Serampore	18	1081	1203
Seringapatam	1236	281	626
Seroor	1067	661	111
Serowie	1213	1243	518
Severndroog	1218	634	133
Shahabad	381	1367	1033
Shahjehanpore	735	1320	916
Shergotty	297	1258	1043
Shekohabad	762	1257	803
Sholapore	1162	534	246
Sigouly	461	1373	1138
Sirdhanah	918	1417	924
Simlah	1112	1601	1086
Sobraon	1173	1672	1147
Subathoo	1038	1577	1062
Sukree Gully	213	1233	1329
Sultanpore	436	1149	941
Do. (Oude)	525	1228	949
Sumbulpore	309	1081	879
Surat	1238	903	191
Sukkur	1818	1733	970
Surdash	177	1147	1357
Sylhet	332	1395	1517
Tanjore	1257	212	871
Tannah	1198	764	27
Tatta	1602	1467	773
Tellicherry	1307	411	629
Tezpore	594	1614	1750
Tindevanum	1129	77	711
Tinnevelly	1435	390	957
Tippera	246	1306	1431
Tirhoot	392	1342	1108
Tranquebar	1227	168	889
Travancore	1500	454	859
Trichinopoly	1254	209	835
Trincomallee	1420	426	1277
Trivandrum	1526	481	892
Tulleh	1208	680	77
Tumlook	50	1034	1156
Tuticoreen	1469	424	990
Umballa	1033	1532	1007
Undul	120	1088	1249
Vaniumbaddy	1132	130	719
Vellore	1100	86	799
Vingorla	1370	593	283
Vizagapatam	557	501	834
Viziadroog	367	737	245
Vizianagram	541	523	856
Wallajahbad	1095	38	753

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INDEX.

Aden	33
Alexandria	26
Bombay, Overland to	36
Bombay, Rules for Passengers by the East India Company’s Steamers	39
Boulac	26
Cairo to Suez	30
Ceylon, Passage to	2, 46
China, Overland to
Desert, the	32
Distances from Calcutta, Madras and Bombay	108
Egypt, Sojourn in	71
Gibraltar	8
Lazaretto, Maltese	67
Lazaretto, Marseilles	62
Lazaretto, Syra	63
Madras, Passage to	2, 50
Malta	11, 67
Miscellaneous	68
Nile, travelling on the	71
Overland Journey, Expense of	67
Overland, Viâ France, Germany and Italy	41
Overland, Homeward	47, 65
Passengers, Instructions to	4
Penang, Overland to	46
Plague, the	54
Pyramids, Ascent of the	29
Servants, Indian	80
Singapore, Overland to	46
Southampton, Passage to	64
Sporting in Egypt	97
Tariff of Duty Goods	101
Vigo, Oporto, Lisbon and Cadiz	68

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